Season 7 Ep 9: Re-Launches, Reformulations and Boudoir with Thomas Dunkley

Incense is having a real moment and in this episode we're exploring why and also talking through some of our favourite incense scents.Why is incense so popular again? Incense has moved from temples and churches into living rooms,studios and perfume wardrobes; it’s become a chic, modern ritual asmuch as a smell.Trend reports link the boom to the hunger for spiritual and holisticpractices – incense is an easy way to pause, “set an intention” andcreate a little ceremony around everyday life.Incense vs frankincense “Incense” is the whole blend you burn – it might be on a stick, cone, coilor rope – and can contain resins, woods, herbs, spices and florals. “Frankincense” (also called olibanum) is one particular resin, tappedfrom Boswellia sacra trees in Oman, Yemen and parts of the Horn ofAfrica. Etymology you can play with: “frankincense” comes from Old French“franc encens” – high quality or “pure” incense – while “incense” itselfgoes back to Latin for “to burn.” When a perfume lists “incense” as a note, it may mean a full accord ofresins (frankincense, myrrh, opoponax, labdanum, elemi, woods,flowers) or a composition that highlights frankincense alone.What incense actually smells like Frankincense: resinous yet airy; earthy, piney, slightly smoky with asurprising citrus brightness. Myrrh: darker, spicier, slightly medicinal and very “churchy”, oftenassociated with ritual and antiquity. Opoponax: honeyed, vanillic, balsamic and comforting – it softens theharsher edges of smoke. Labdanum: rich, ambery, leathery and almost animalic; gives incenseperfumes that plush, warm body. Elemi: sharp, lemony, peppery resin that brings sparkle and lift to thesmoke. Woods (sandalwood, cedar etc.): add dryness, creaminess orpencilshaving smokiness and form the backbone of many incenseheavyfragrances.Quotes from perfumers: Francis Kurkdjian on why he loves Japanese incense at home: partlypracticality, because “it fills the room in five minutes, whereas candlestake ages.” Yasmin Sewell on the moodshift: “Where a candle may take twentyminutes to resonate in your space, when you light incense there is animmediate scent that fills the room.” Sewell again on why incense made more sense than candles for herbrand’s next step: “I felt that incense really connected with our values,since it’s been used in spiritual rituals for so long,” and “what I reallylove about incense is that it shifts the mood instantly.” Lyn Harris on her daily ritual: “It sets a spiritual tone to my day,” andincense is “an ethereal veil that lingers in the air.” She burns it in themorning to set her mood, sometimes midday to reinvigorate her senses,and even before bed so “there is a sensual haze passing over mynostrils before I sleep.” Chris Rusak on the psychology of burning it: incense is “a great vehiclefor empowerment or catharsis via controlled destruction” and “incenseuse is intentional. It requires fire or directed heat for full expression,which we must effect, contain, and control, in order to destroy it but notourselves.” How it’s harvested: frankincense resin oozes from cuts in theBoswellia sacra tree and dries into golden “tears”, sometimes called“frankincense tears” or “olibanum tears”. The jinn love story: a girl from the jinn falls in love with a human boy –forbidden, of course. As punishment she’s turned into a tree; her griefbecomes crystal tears that people burn on coal for healing smoke with abitter taste that mourns lost love. Ecology: frankincense forests in northern Ethiopia are under threat asthey’re...

Nicola:Penhaligon's Festive Mini Sethttps://www.penhaligons.com/uk/en/p/festive-mini-set-for-her-5x5-ml--000000000065224079Jo Malone London Festive Cologne Duohttps://www.jomalone.co.uk/product/26322/127599/gift-sets/festive-cologne-duoBamford Geranium Candlehttps://shop.claridges.co.uk/products/bamford-geranium-candle?srsltid=AfmBOopvh-fHP_E4r3friAxcOw4J40HInA0W1PQfVTCUGf2Ym_wb9mHMNeal's Yard Orange and Geranium Hand Soaphttps://www.nealsyardremedies.com/products/geranium-orange-hand-wash?_pos=2&amp;_psq=orange+and+geranium&amp;_ss=e&amp;_v=1.0Granado Gift Setshttps://www.granado.uk/uk/amazonico-scented-suitcaseSuzy:Meadowfarm Smoked Honey &amp; Orange 1 Wick Candle £25‘This stunning new candle is inspired by my love of bee keeping. It’s a unique blend of bergamot, orange flowers and ylang ylang, with added honey notes and just a hint of smokiness from the amber. It’s summery and bright, yet has an intricate depth to it. This is guaranteed to be one of your new favourites, it’s perfect for summer but will work equally well allyear round.’https://meadowfarmlifestyle.co.uk/shop/candles/smoked-honey-orange/Lords Fragrance House Cotswold Scented Hand Dipped Taper Candles £30‘Inspired by days spent with my best friend in the serene beauty of the English country side. This fragrance captures cottage gardens, surrounded by rolling hills, on sunny days spent laughing in the sunshine. A delicate blend of bergamot, lemon and orange, with heart notes of rosemary, lavender and mint, with a cedar and vetiver base. The perfect scent for those seeking a moment of calm.’https://lordsfragrancehouse.com/products/monteverde-scented-hand-dipped-tapered-candles-copyBoujee Bougies Candles (now 50% off RRP!) £30Tart: ‘What comes to mind when you think of tartness? We wanted to capture that delicious, mouth-watering, and life-affirming taste sensation. Tart is our vivid homage to fresh tarts and invigorating teas&nbsp;- a feel good tonic with irreverent and unexpected twists. Tart is lush with greenery – cool, refreshing herbal notes of mint and basil - and fizzing with fruitiness – the juicy flesh of green plum and blackcurrant. To make sure it’s zesty, we played with the crisp zing of lemon, rhubarb, and ginger, and served it all over ice with the sweet apricot facets of osmanthus. Tart is vibrant, fun, and uplifting AF.Scent impressionsMouthwatering, moreish, green-hued tartnessNotes listMint, Lemon, Blue Ginger, Cassis, Green Plum, Rhubarb, Basil, Osmanthus, Moss, Musk’<a href="https://eaudeboujee.com/collections/boujee-bougies/products/tart-candle" rel="noopener noreferrer"...

In the podcast this week, Suzy &amp; Nicola talk fragrances they’ve been obsessed with wearing lately (&amp; some are quite unexpected…) Plus, there’s an absolutely BRILLIANT #listenerprescription from ballet costume designer Isabelle, who asked for recommendations to scent her way through working on costumes for a 2026 tour of Don Quixote - dreaming of Spanish sunshine in the depths of a chilly English winter!Fragrances we can’t stop wearing…Nicola:@nosuparfum Been Trying to Meet You - wistful, hay &amp; meadow-infused memories@nosuparfum Sain No More - Smoked herbaceous rituals welcome a fresh start@merit Retrospect - Nostalgia meets newness via juicy sparkles &amp; second-skin@floraiku Sand &amp; Skin - Amber-glazed skin, vanilla horizons &amp; gilded dreams@bamford Geranium Candle – Instantly-uplifting botanical blissSuzy:@angelaflanders Rose Sauvage – Dew-bright, berried wild rose bursts with sheer joy@headspaceparfum Rose - A rose frozen in glass, awoken by a silver bullet@bdkparfumsparis 312 Saint-Honoré - Couture chalky floral drifts chic clouds of comfort@memoizeperfume Imber - Succulent cherry, cassis &amp; rhubarb spiced to a musky trail@juliettehasagun Powder Love - Marshmallow, sugared almond &amp; a gentle hug#listenerprescription for Isabelle / Don Quixote ballet:Principal Lady@monegalperfumes Flamenco extrait – Raspberries, roses &amp; sizzling saffron woodiness. Passion personified@lartisanparfumeur Histoire d’Oranger – Orange trees, dappled sunlight &amp; tendrils of incense@parfumsmicallef Ylang in Gold – A solar shimmer of ylang-ylang, orange, fluffy vanilla &amp; coconut for a glimmering finaléThe Rascals@jusboxperfumes Studio 54 – Cocktails, cardamom-studded vanilla &amp; naughty patchouli – for hedonists: flamboyant &amp; ready for [email protected] Together – Bergamot &amp; mandarin, irresistible vanilla praline &amp; a spicy trail of suede – the scent of friendship &amp; assurance for scene-stealersThe scent of Spain@lamontagnacandles Winter Oranges – The scent of a Valencian orange harvest, warmly spiced, evoking citrus-soaked sunsets &amp; festive cheer@alvarez_gomez_perfumes Agua de Colonia Concentrada – Mediterranean lemons &amp; aromatic herbs, bottled Spanish sunshine with historic soul

Listener @somestarrynight messaged us from Paris about the @maisonfranciskurkdjian installation at @palaisdetokyo (on until 23 November - so hurry if you want to see it!)As it happens, Laurent from @ostens_official shared smelling strips from the expo at a recent dinner, a reminder of scent’s communal, artful side. So although we can’t get to see it, we *have* smelled the scents created for it)Perfume: Sculpture of the Invisible (celebrating 20 years of MFK &amp; @franciskurkdjian_official’s olfactive artistry - scenting galleries, theatrical performances, music, &amp; places) “has opened up perfume to new forms and destinations, taking it out of the bottle.” - Jérôme Neutres, Exhibition Curator#perfumeprescriptions17-year old listener Sadbh asks for starting points in perfume shopping, balancing jasmine, fresh ginger, roses, amber, and not-too-sweet vanillaOur guidance:@marksandspencerstyle Spiced Amber EDT: powdery depths, amber heart, cedar and geranium@marksandspencerstyle Apothecary Warmth EDP: cardamom, cinnamon, cedarwood, sandalwood for warming comfortNicola notes that niche shop @bloomperfumery’s site suggests related scents when you search a name, and well-trained staff at perfume departments can be invaluable - don’t be afraid to ask them for help.@tocca Wonders Collection (stocked @theperfumeshop) – £55 for 6 x 5ml EDP:Florence Eau de Parfum: green garden bouquet of gardenia, tuberose, iris; Parisian romance.Cleopatra EDP: grapefruit, jasmine, patchouli—seductive and regal.Stella EDP: citrus and florals with Italian sunshine; breezy, radiant.Lucia EDP: sunlit lemon, vetiver, fig; slow living, luminous.Laila EDP: luxurious indulgence, confident sensuality.Colette EDP: citrus, floral, woods; Parisian literary spirit with daring edge.New fragrances @oliverbonasFig &amp; Tonka, Pomelo &amp; Basil EDPs (£12.50 each)Mandarin &amp; Jasmine, Warm Oud &amp; Saffron EDTs (£20 full size, £9.50 rollers)Also at Oliver Bonas:@floralstreet_: Wild Vanilla Orchid (£28/10ml); vanilla, jasmine, cassis with bamboo and sandalwood.@ghostfragrances Orb of Night (£24/30ml EDP): Dark fruit, jasmine, roasted tonka—sundown to sunrise.We’re plotting a full episode on this topic of helping those who feel overwhelmed by choice / want affordable starting points, &amp; will also crowd-source tips from friends of the pod!Nicola talks about the new scent from @granadobrazil AmazonicaThe wonderful Claire @paperbackperfumes asks for a green / woodland-like, non-powdery violet scent…Our picks:@murphyanddaughters Violet Perfume Oil (Melbourne): violet leaf heart, violet flower high note; green and sparkling@orizalegrand Violettes du Czar: violet-forward with green citrus undertones, smoky woods, iris in the background@molinardparfums Violette: violet with black currant, bergamot, lemon; layered floral notes@olfactivestudio Violet Shot: green grass, violet leaf, leather, patchouli; violet with edge

In this week’s episode we’re talking about atmospheric fragrances we love, which helped set the scene for our Halloween Scented Story. Because we believe just as reading a book can be an escape route; so too can perfume be a portal…&nbsp;You can watch the whole story from the start by clicking on the Halloween highlight circle beneath our Instagram bio @onthescentpodcastUsing those fragrances and describing them as part of our Scented Story, we infused the spooky tale with scents you can go and smell for yourselves (or perhaps have already experienced).&nbsp;We so hope you enjoy this deep-dive into fragrance, mood, memory and scented scene-setting.&nbsp;Meanwhile, we’d LOVE it if you were inspired to smell along with us by either collecting samples of the following scents or (as we’ know it’s not always possible), to imagine which fragrances you’d have used for each section.&nbsp;We chose:&nbsp;Chapter 1: Suzy@marcantoinebarrois - Ganymede Extrait@thesocietyofalchemists - Familiars2: Nicola@erisparfums - Green Spell@pinewardperfume - Funerie3: Suzy@millerharris - WANDER through the parks@headspaceparfums - Styrax@diptyque - L’Eau Papier4: Nicola@perfumerhlondon- Dust&nbsp;@naomigoodsir - Bois d’Ascèse@sergeslutens - Lait du Dent&nbsp;5: Suzy@diptyque - Feu du Bois candle&nbsp;@lorenzovilloresi - Teint de Neige&nbsp;6: Nicola&nbsp;@bienaime_1935 - Vermeil@the_virtue - Holy Smoke7: Suzy@beaufortlondon - Sirenide@thesocietyofalchemists - ’Til Death@shopforas - Mushroom [email protected]&nbsp;- Soul Notes@marksandspencerstyle - Apothecary Reassure

In this week’s&nbsp;On the Scent&nbsp;Podcast we’re back with your #perfumeprescription postbag – finding perfect matches for every mood &amp; memory. You write in with such gorgeous questions &amp; we love nothing more than playing fragrant matchmakers!Sharon asked for a bright, zesty replacement for her mum’s beloved Bahoma Pomelo Grapefruit. We suggested&nbsp;&nbsp;these citrus stunners:@boadicea_the_victorious Energizer – glowing grapefruit, vetiver &amp; soft musks.@sana_jardin Air of Aquarius – lemon &amp; rosemary serenity.@jamesheeley Pomelo Crush – crisp grapefruit &amp; white florals.@hermeticaofficial Pomeloflow – radiant pomelo, rhubarb &amp; jasmine.@ruthmastenbroek Signature – sparkling mandarin &amp; soft woods.Susan asked about wellbeing fragrances following our discussion of the @ifra Fragrance Forum. Curious about how scent truly lifts our mood? Brands like @edenisteofficial, @esteelauder, @yslbeauty, @native, @pacorabanne &amp; many more are exploring neuro-perfume science – using aroma to boost happiness, calm &amp; focus.Finally, Robyn’s craving a sexy, cool yet cosy leather perfume. Try:@chanelofficial Cuir de Russie – smoky jasmine &amp; birch.@tomford Tuscan Leather – supple leather &amp; amberwood.@marcantoinebarrois B683 – saffron &amp; soft woods.@millerharris Soufflot – hazelnut-tobacco leather cocoon.@beaufortlondon Coeur de Noir – inky leather, rum &amp; pipe smoke.@headspaceperfums Styrax – amber, labdanum &amp; animalic skin warmth.Listen to the full questions then let us know which scents would YOU pick for their prescriptions?&nbsp;&nbsp;#OnTheScentPodcast

In this week's episode we're joined by the amazing @makingscentsmakesense Thomas Dunckley.Following Thomas and Suzy's hugely popular reel about the reformulation of Vivienne Westwood's Boudoir, we're chatting not only about that but about reformulations in general.It's a fascinating chat where the three of us delve into scent memory and how it can shift over time plus some of the reformulations that we've experienced over the years and what we think of them.

Tasha Marks @avmcuriousities is an award-winning scent artist and historian who recreated the smells of Marie Antoinette’s life at the current @vamuseum exhibition Marie Antoinette: Style. In this fascinating interview, she tells us how she constructed the aromas this doomed Queen would have known - from powdered wigs and courtly balls at Versailles, the wildflower meadows of Petit Trianon, to her eventual damp-filled prison cell.&nbsp;We’re also following up our previous Patreon episode of ‘Would Marie Antoinette Wear Now (on a budget), by asking which niche perfumes she’d plump for in modern day (if money were no object).&nbsp;We discuss…@maisonfranciskurkdjian á La RoseÀ la rose eau de parfum is a tribute to femininity, a declaration of love translated into a fragrance. A light and sensual fragrance showcasing two exceptional roses: Damascena rose and Centifolia rose. They build on one another to bring you a musky floral perfume which is in turn subtle and exuberant.&nbsp;@parfumsdemarly DelinaFrivolously pretty peony &amp; lily of the valley swoon to damascena rose, brightened by lychee &amp; rhubarb@officine_universelle_buly Rose de Damas&nbsp;Opulent rose bathes in milk spiced with hints of ginger, vetiver, cedar &amp; musk for decadent beauty@leseauxprimordiales Iris PalladiumSilkily powdered, yet threaded with a silvery backbone, this shimmers with cardamom &amp; violet atop the warmly woody base@byredo Blanche "Blanche explores the dynamic nature of the senses with an edge of floral freshness. Inspired by the delicacy of bodies slipping between fresh sheets, the crisp comfort of clean laundry, and the romantic whisper of heady florals. The scent opens with top notes of aldehydes and intoxicating rose centifolia. It then softens into vibrant peony and violet before settling into a base of soft musk accented with earthy sandalwood. A veil of scintillating scent awaits."@akrofragrances Bake"A gourmand fragrance made up of Tart Lemon notes, followed by sweet Vanilla and rich, nutty Praline."@dsanddurga Cognac ReignBaroque ‘n Roll via rouged cheeks, clouds of powder, ribbons of caramel, bergamot &amp; toasty oak over rivers of fine French spiritSuzy also mentions some incredible historical costume accounts to follow, if you’re interested in seeing more of Marie Antoinette’s fashion influence:&nbsp;@asta.darling - who recreates the most exquisite gowns and attends lavish 18th Century balls in them at Versailles&nbsp;@americanduchess - who make period accurate shoes and accessories, plus post videos on everything from wig-dressing techniques to how women wore those corsets and ultra-wide skirts in everyday life.&nbsp;&nbsp;

*This episode is in partnership with Ormonde Jayne*In this fabulous episode, recorded before our lovely live event in the Royal Arcade, we're getting to know the utterly incredible Linda Pilkington.Prepare to hear about the scents (and bottles) that helped shape Linda's passion for fragrance, the incredible travels that Linda went on that have shaped so much of what she does today and how making a candle for a Chanel boutique was the start of her spectacular brand and career.We'll also be sniffing and celebrating the brand new Ormonde Jayne fragrance Sybarite (which is available exclusively at their glorious boutique in the Royal Arcade)and exploring the Reimagined Four Corners Collection which totally took our breath away.Enjoy getting to know this truly brilliant woman.

Hello and welcome to this week’s episode of On the Scent, where Suzy and Nicola are diving deep into the world of oud (or Oudh – however you like to spell it!) today. Get ready for a fragrant journey through smoky woods, golden honey, contemporary twists and opulent blends — all celebrating the many faces of this legendary ingredient, in order of intensity.We discuss…@andotherstories Arabesque WoodLemon and ginger glimmer atop a heart of tangerine and watery notes, swirling through earthy moss and amber to reveal an oud embraced by sunlight and citrus, mysterious yet uplifting.@marksandspencer Smoked OudAn earthy impression of smoked woods and musk deepens within spicy sandalwood, conjuring a quietly powerful warmth that lingers on skin, wrapping you in a gentle cloak of incense.@neverfullydressed 001Spices gather atop a velvet cloud of coffee and rose, rum and plum. Oud sways through vanilla and tobacco, sweetened amber and Kashmir fusion flowing into a night-time dream of skin and bohemian outfits.@florislondon Honey OudGolden English honey melts with rich rose and deep oud, the sweetness alive with vanilla and velvet, a bouquet glowing softly, seducing and whispering close.@maisonfranciskurkdjian Oud Satin MoodDamascena rose and violet melt seamlessly into a shimmering oud, entwined with vanilla and amber. Like silk on skin, it envelops you in plush warmth and luxurious depth.@neelavermeire MohurSpiced cardamom pirouettes with moghul roses over subtle leather and almond milk, shadows of history blooming with Indian grandeur and British elegance, golden and ornate.@vallensefragrance SourceOpulent mandarin and black pepper lead to smokey heart notes of frankincense and cypriol, praline and amber glowing in warmth and mystery, conjuring anticipation and timelessness.@rpparfums Oud DeliceProvençal honey and caramelised amber blend in a confit of oud, patchouli and vetiver. A feast for the senses, luxurious and moreish—amber and oud swirled with a gourmand golden glow.@kajalperfumes Lamar NoirBergamot and green apple lend their brightness to tropical fruits and violet, rose and vanilla blooming in a luscious embrace. Leather and oud ripple throughout, sensual and balancing.SO many outs we love, in fact, that we couldn’t fit them all in one episode! Watch out for Part Two of our must-sniff list, coming soon…