#116: Is Arbutin A Good Hydroquinone Alternative?

In this episode, we put five popular vitamin C serums featuring 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid to the test: Beauty of Joseon Light on Serum, Elf C+E+Feruic Acid Serum, Olay Vitamin C Brightening Serum,  Innisfree Green Tean Enzyme Vitamin C, and Numbuz:n 5+. This is a wild category of products. Unlike the CE Ferulic dupes, the range is far and wide in between! From texture critiques (why so sticky, Elf?) to actives breakdown, we decode the labels and share which formulas we’d choose — and which ones barely count as a vitamin C serum at all.   Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Product Shoutout: Mr. Reliable Moisturizer with 3% Ceramide Complex https://chemistconfessions.com/products/mr-reliable-lightweight-moisturizer Enrichment Content: EP144: Is 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid a worthy vitamin C derivative? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9wfbFIUIJg From the Blog: Which Vitamin C Derivative is Best for My Skin https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/which-vitamin-c-derivative-is-the-best-for-my-skin  Follow us: IG: https://www.instagram.com/chemist.confessions/ INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfessions?lang=en Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

In this extended 30 for 30 finale, we review 30 chemical sunscreens across drugstore, mid-tier, international, and luxury categories. breaking down textures, performance, pilling, greasy finishes, and even surprise standouts like Banana Boat Light as Air. Perfect for anyone struggling to find their next go-to SPF! Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357 Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams  Follow us: IG:   / chemist.confessions   INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes... Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack

We’re back for our third year of the 30 for 30 sunscreen challenge where we test 30 sunscreens in 30 days. In part 1, we discuss the mineral sunscreens. This category is divided into mineral fluids and mineral lotions. We rate them from worst, meh, noteworthy, and best based on their texture and finish. Overall, we’ve found this category to be much improved! Let’s dive into our mineral sunscreen journey!   Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514   Recommended 30 for 30 Sunscreens 2025 *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1766357   Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser   Enrichment Content: Sunscreen Layering Guide https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQ0Dlb0WXvc   Do We Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams    Follow us: IG:   / chemist.confessions   INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfes...   Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack  

One of the top questions we get on sunscreen is - I want to layer foundation with my sunscreen is that okay? What does it mean for the level of sun protection I’m getting? That’s a pretty complex question and thankfully - we have some great studies and recommendations to share. *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser Enrichment Content: Do we Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams  Chemists’ Ultimate Sunscreen Applicatin Guide https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/chemists-ultimate-sunscreen-application-guide  Don’t just take it from us - check out other sources like AAD, PCPC, and IBA https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/sun-protection/shade-clothing-sunscreen/is-sunscreen-safe  Follow us: IG: https://www.instagram.com/chemist.confessions/ INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfessions?lang=en Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack Resources Mentioned: Interactions between different solar UVB/UVA filters contained in commercial suncreams and consequent loss of UV protection https://sci-hub.ru/https://link.springer.com/article/10.1039/b606768a Only one quarter of sunscreens on store shelves are safe and effective, new report says  https://www.cnn.com/2025/05/20/health/2025-safest-sunscreens-wellness  A review of inorganic UV filters zinc oxide and titanium dioxide https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/phpp.12439  Understanding the causes of skincare product pilling https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/srt.13828  Interactions between different solar UVB/UVA filters contained in commercial suncreams and consequent loss of UV protection https://sci-hub.ru/https://link.springer.com/article/10.1039/b606768a  

Ever since we did round 1 of our CE Ferulic dupe tests, round 2 has been highly requested. This time around, the ascorbic acid serum contenders are: La Roche Posay Pure 12% Vitamin C Serum, Wild Fleur 15% Pure Vitamin C + Xanthophyll - Marigold Brightening Serum, Cerave Vitamin C Serum, Geek & Gorgeous Vitamin C Face Serum, Prequel Lucent C, and Vichy 16% Pure Vitamin C Brightening Serum We incubated these for 6 weeks, and the results are in. Let’s see which reigned supreme, and which would we skip!   Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser Enrichment Content: Podcast #139: Water vs. Anhydrous Vitamin C 5 CE Ferulic Dupes put to the Test Pt 1 https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/5-skinceuticals-vitamin-c-dupes-put-to-the-test  Product Tested: Vichy LiftActiv Brightening (15% Vitamin C) - $34.99 : https://www.vichyusa.com/skin-care/skin-care-product-type/face-serum/liftactiv-vitamin-c-serum-vitamincserum.html CeraVe (10% Vitamin C) - $23.99 : https://www.cerave.com/skincare/facial-serums/skin-renewing-vitamin-c-serum Prequel Lucent C Brightening Vitamin C (15%) - $23 : https://prequelskin.com/products/lucent-c-vitamin-c-serum Geek & Gorgeous C-Glow (15% Vitamin C) - $13.90 : https://geekandgorgeous.us/products/c-glow Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop (5% Vitamin C) - $23 : https://sokoglam.com/products/klairs-freshly-juiced-vitamin-c Wildfleur Pure Vitamin C 15% + Marigold Brightening - $26 : https://www.ulta.com/p/pure-vitamin-c-15-marigold-brightening-serum-pimprod2050101 La Roche-Posay 12% Pure Vitamin C - $46.99 : https://www.laroche-posay.us/our-products/face/face-serum/vitamin-c12-serum-3337875660570.html

Vitamin C, ascorbic acid, is famously known as the only rigorously tested antioxidant for age prevention. Yet this active is also notoriously known for its quirky characteristics in the classic CE Ferulic serum format. This unstable hot dog water has often generated concerns for using it long term. In this episode, the chemists discuss ascorbic acid’s stability and compare vitamin C in water-based formulas vs. anhydrous formulas to see if there’s a better format for this finicky active.  Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Product Shoutout: Aquafix Hydrating Water Gel https://chemistconfessions.com/products/aquafix-hydrating-water-gel Enrichment Content: Podcast Ep - Which Vitamin C Derivative is Better? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b96PX4L6hsQ&t=82s Results of our CE Ferulic Dupe Test - Pt. 1 https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/5-skinceuticals-vitamin-c-dupes-put-to-the-test Follow us: IG: https://www.instagram.com/chemist.confessions/ INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfessions?lang=en Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehacks  Resources Mentioned: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34986505/ https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1226086X17304422  https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/9/4/74  https://www.martiderm.com/int-en/product/vitamin-c-antiox  https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.14837  https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/scientists-taught-pet-parrots-to-video-call-each-other-and-the-birds-loved-it-180982041/ https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00473.x

It’s finally getting warmer and this means that we’ve already started testing our 2025 #30for30SunscreenChallenge tests! So this feels like a great time to do a special sunscreen news roundup episode. In this episode, we discuss why you can’t buy Asian sunscreen formulas as easily anymore, what tariffs might mean for the sunscreen landscape, and interesting studies on sunscreen application. Oh! And in case you’re curious, we also cover all the factors the UV index considers to help you make an informed decision on your sun protection of the day.

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following our cleanser science episode, we tested 5 of the topselling Kbeauty cleansing oils so you don’t have to, which include: Skin1004, Beauty of Joseon, Anua, Ma:Nyo, and Haru Haru. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective. 

On the topic of cleansers, a lot of the questions the chemists get are about the cleansing routine. One of the common questions is, “Can you just use water to cleanser your face?” The great thing is, this scenario has actually been tested (which is very rare). The chemists discuss the findings and what things to consider if you happen to be using just water to rinse your face. An unusual deep dive, but hopefully interesting and satisfying for those who’ve ever wondered. 

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the ceramide deep dive, the chemists review 4 of the most popular drugstore moisturizers so you don’t have to, which include: Vanicream, CeraVe, Cetaphil, and La Roche Posay Lipikar. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective.