188. JOY MILNE ~ The Nose That Can Smell Parkinson's

Spoturno is an haute perfume house bridging and blurring the lines between legacy and modernity. And it makes sense. Founder Véronique Spoturno is the great-granddaughter of François Spoturno (dit Coty), who's widely credited as ‘the father of modern perfumery.’ Véronique drops by the Perfume Room to talk family legacy, the vision behind the brand, and the debut collection created with Christopher Sheldrake (who is the sole perfumer for the entire brand).RSVP TO HOT TAKES LIVE: (pw: hotmic)https://stele.nyc/pages/12-5-hot-takes-live-with-emma-vernon-of-perfume-room-at-steleFRAGS MENTIONED:Escentric Molecules M01+ Cistus (SOTD), Spoturno Barbicaja, 1921, Barbicaja, Alphée, L’Âme du Phénix

Christopher Sheldrake is the nose behind numerous fragrances other perfumers only wish they had created: Feminité du Bois, Ambre Sultan, Chergui, etc. His style is at once deeply technical, classical, and avant-garde. Today, we chat about his prolific career, the creations he considers part of his personal canon, his unfiltered thoughts on the current state of niche, and Christopher shares the never-before-heard stories behind some of his greatest works.RSVP TO HOT TAKES LIVE: (pw: hotmic)https://stele.nyc/pages/12-5-hot-takes-live-with-emma-vernon-of-perfume-room-at-steleFRAGS MENTIONED:Spoturno 1921 (SOTD), Shalimar L’Essence (SOTD), Molton Brown Milk Musk, Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur, Serge Lutens: Santal Majuscule, Féminité du Bois, Rahät Loukoum, L'Orpheline, L'Innommable, Serge Noir, Chanel No. 5, Spoturno: 1921, Barbicaja, Alphée, L'Âme du Phénix; Giardini di Toscano Bianco Latte, Serge Lutens: Un Bois Vanille, YSL Opium, Dior Poison, Pour un homme de Caron, Serge Lutens: L’Orpheline, Féminité du Bois, Ambre Sultan, Chergui; Spoturno Barbicaja; Serge Lutens: Santal de Mysore, Santal Blanc; Le Labo Santal 33; Serge Lutens: Fumerie Turque, A la Nuit, Cuir Mauresque

Cammy (of @cammyreviews) is a PerfumeTok darling with impeccable taste and niche recommendations to scratch your every fragrant itch.  But her curation doesn't stop there. She’s as devoted to perfume as she is to gummy candy — equally discerning in both. So today, naturally, we smell perfume and eat candy!!WATCH FULL VID EP THIS FRIDAY ON SUBSTACK!FRAGS MENTIONED:Astier de Villattes Ambre Liquide (SOTD), Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan, Tom ford Amber Absolute, Guerlain Shalimar, Regime des Fleurs Glass Blooms, D.S. & Durga IDK What, Hermes Terre D’Hermes, Mugler Angel, Ormonde Jayne Evernia, Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule, Le Labo Bergamote 22, Frederic Malle Musc Ravageur, Le Labo Labdanum 18, Boyd’s of Texas High Desert, Clue Perfumery Warm Bulb, Kierin Nitro Noir, Miller Harris L’Air de Rien, Liquides Imaginaires Blanche Bete,  Commodity Orris, Justin Beiber Someday, Glossier You, Fragonard Rose Lavande, Parfums de Marly Delina, Sol de Janeiro, Tale Fleurt, La Perla Once Upon A GardenCANDY MENTIONED:Jolly Rancher Gummies, Haribo Gold Bears, fruit slices, Jarritos Sour Gummies, Lifesavers Gummies Exotics

Amélie Huynh does it all: she’s a jewelry designer, art collector, historian, mother, and the visionary who revived the 200-year-old fragrance brand, D’ORSAY. Guided by a mission to honor its romantic and scandal-tinged legacy through a modern lens, Amélie’s era of D’ORSAY balances its storied past with modern perfumery. Today, we discuss why she chose to revive the brand, its evolution, her jewelry line Statement Paris, her family’s restored chateau, and you might even hear a brainstorm for the next eau de parfum, D’ORSAY E.V. 😏FRAGS MENTIONED:Meo Fusciuni Viole Nere, D’ORSAY: Nous Sommes Amants MD, Flower Lust Extrait, Sur Tes Lèvres EQ, A Coeur Perdu LB, Tilleul, Vouloir Etres Ailleurs CG, Dandy or Not GA, La Dandy; Chanel No. 19, D'ORSAY: Le Dandy Pour Homme, Holy Berry, Tonka Hysteria, Celine perfumes, D'ORSAY 21:30 Sous les Draps

Manuel Mathieu is a Haitian multidisciplinary artist known worldwide for his emotionally-charged, indefinite-form paintings, drawings, ceramics, and installations. His work is held in major collections, and just last year, he was named a Companion of the Ordre des Arts et des Lettres du Québec.Three years ago, during a residency in Paris, Mathieu turned to a new medium: scent. What began as curiosity has grown into an eponymous fragrance line (Manuel Mathieu Parfums), which Manuel created alongside IFF VP perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou. Like his art, Manuel's perfumes evoke the intricate, layered depths of human existence.10% OFF ⁠manuelmathieuparfums.com⁠: code: perfumeroom10FRAGS MENTIONED:Maison Mataha Printemps Blanc, YSL Black Opium, Tocca Stella, Britney Spears Curious, Hanae Mori, Nonfiction Odorama Manuel Mathieu Parfums Dsire, Eccco, Île Noire; Chanel No. 5 MANUEL'S EXHIBIT AT THE PHI

Wait wait, Gap Dream was inspired by what? The initial concept for the collection began as... soaps? All this, and so many more amazing insider stories on the making of THE ICONIC 90s GAP SCENTS (Dream, Heaven, Om & Grass), with the visionary behind it all: Creative Exec and Entrepreneur, Gary McNatton! FRAGS MENTIONED:Diptyque Lazulio (SOTD), Jorum Studio Pony Boy, Diptyque Corail Oscuro, Chris Collins African Rooibos, Heath London, Creed Aventus, CdG 2 Man, Gap Dream, The Body Shop Rain, Van Cleef First, Molton Brown, Antonia’s Flowers, Giorgio, Dior Poison, YSL Opium, Gap: Om, Dream; Antonia’s Flowers, Hudson Grace OriginalSMELL CLUB: spookysmellclub.eventbrite.com

Born with a rare hereditary condition called hyperosmia, Joy Milne possesses a superhuman sense of smell—one so acute it led her to make a groundbreaking medical discovery: Parkinson's Disease has a smell. How did she do it? What might it mean for the future of diagnostic testing? And what other diseases and human conditions have scents?(SPOILER ALERT: romantic compatibility is one of them!)FOLLOW: @perfumeroompod | perfumeroom.substack.comSOTD: Maison D'Etto Noisette

Olivier Cresp, DSM-Firmenich Master Perfumer, Founder of Akro by Oliver Cresp, and literal inventor of the gourmand (!) is BACK in the Perfume Room! (AN HONOR!) Today, he reflects on his oeuvre including his signature, palette, and unique approach to perfumery. We discuss how new advances in technology will impact past and future creations, AI and its role in perfumery, how his creative approach differs for his own brand versus client work, and of course we discuss the newest Akro launch: Crush!WATCH THE FULL EPISODE ON ⁠SUBSTACK⁠ THIS FRIDAY!FRAG MENTIONED:Akro Haze, D&G Light Blue, Akro Crush (SOTD), Light Blue (2025), Akro Rise, Mugler Angel, Akro: Smile, Glow, BakeTRY CRUSH! (10% LuckyScent orders $40+ w/ code perfumeroom10)

AI content creators, my perfume collection (!), and the bottles I am eyeing right now all ahead in today's quick solo catch-up! SOTD: Commodity Milk Orchid :) FRAGS MENTIONED:Commodity Milk Orchid, Le Labo Santal 33, Diptyque Orpheon, Le Labo Gaiac 10, Byredo  Mojave Ghost, Diptyque: Orphéon, Vetyverio (EDT); Fzotic Vetiverissimo, Escentric Molecules Molecule 01 + Iris, Naomi Goodsir Iris Cendre, Jovoy Musc Pallas, Courreges Hyper Musc, Sana Jardin Vanilla Nomad, Diptyque Eau Duelle

PSA: You Don’t Have to Go to France to Study Fragrance!!In fact, there’s an educational, state-of-the-art fragrance lab right in NYC—at FIT, home to the country’s only collegiate Cosmetics & Fragrance Marketing program. Today’s guest, Virginia Bonofiglio, is the Associate Chairperson (and professor) leading it all. Having held roles in just about every position in this industry over the span of her forty-plus year-long fragrance career (with many accolades and awards along the way), Virginia brings a rare real-world perspective to her classroom.Today we chat about her own serendipitous path to perfumery, she shares what students learn in the program, the wide range of careers in fragrance, and how you, yes you, can find your perfect path in this industry. FRAGS MENTIONED:Ex Nihilo Santal Calling, Escentric Molecules Molecule 04, Hermes Terre d'Hermes, DS & Durga IDK What, The Maker Lover, Elorea Gentle Shower, Bulgari Eau Thé Vert, Paco Rabanne Calandre, Coco Madamoiselle, Cabochard, Miss Dior, Joy Jean Patou, Giorgio, Boucheron, Bijan Bijan, Baccarat RougeLEARN MORE ABOUT FIT'S COSMETICS AND FRAGRANCE MARKETING PROGRAM!FOLLOW: @fitfragrance