In Their Shoes

DescriptionIn a specially extended interview for the Cordwainers, Katie Greenyer talks to maverick Patrick Cox the award-winning, British-trained, Canadian fashion designer whose eponymous footwear label introduced the Wannabe loafer, one of the most iconic shoes of the 90s. Patrick talks about his peripatetic childhood between Canada and Africa, and his early days as a self-professed 'fashion victim' with a driving desire to stand out from the crowd and ‘be noticed’.Listen, as he recounts his time as a ‘disruptor’ at Cordwainers Technical College in London in the 80s, where he rubbed shoulders with the infamous ‘Cordwainer Six’. Obsessed with international design, he bunked off college to attend the fashion shows in Paris, embracing the New Romanticism of the era, but when it could have been ‘anything’ it was footwear that caught his attention.Patrick recalls working with the brilliant Vivienne Westwood and her team – ‘for the absolute love and joy and honour’ - which gave him the key breaks he needed on his footwear journey - from launching his own label and first collection in 1986, through to projects with John Galliano, Geox and Sophia Webster, who credited him with inspiring her design career. Finally, he touches on the challenges of working with investors and brands and opens up about his very personal journey through rehab struggling with depression. He talks about his current project building his own brand ‘Doors of Perception’ and looks forward to the next life chapter in an extraordinary design career.

In this episode, Katie Greenyer interviews the award-winning Deborah Carré and James Ducker of the handsewn bespoke shoemaking brand Carréducker. Join the conversation as they discuss their individual routes to becoming artisan shoemakers and to joining forces to create products built to last, with a focus on sustainability, excellence, comfort and fit.  As second careerists who met while training with master shoemaker Paul Wilson, they are passionate about passing on the skills of handsewn shoemaking and teaching future generations of shoemakers. Learn more about Carréducker’s shoemaking school and the joy and challenges that this side of the business brings. Pick up their top tips for both makers and designers. Deborah and James talk in detail about the process of bespoke shoemaking including the journey that they undertake with customers – from first discussions to final fitting. Hear about the challenges of running a business together for 20 years, how Deborah and James divide responsibilities, and how the impact of external pressures such as Brexit and Covid have meant they have had to adapt and evolve. Deborah and James discuss how inspiring they find their students and the importance and discovery of a wider handsewn community with all that it brings. Deborah also talks about getting her voice heard as a craftsperson, and researching the tangible, cultural heritage of shoemaking.  The two of them are passionate about their calling as cordwainers and the importance of keeping the skills of handsewn shoemaking alive.  

In our latest podcast, Katie chats to the brilliant Kristina Blahnik, niece of Manolo Blahnik, whose name is synonymous with women’s luxury shoes. Kristina is CEO of the Blahnik family brand and shares her thoughts on running a family business, and how to lead and manage a thriving company in the 21st century. She is also guest judge for the Cordwainers Footwear Awards 2025.  Listen as Kristina talks about childhood memories and traces her journey to becoming head of the business today. She and Katie discuss Kristina’s roots in architecture and how that rigorous training translates into footwear - structure, materiality and form. Kristina gives insights into the challenges and responsibility of being the second generation in the family business and her drive to think strategically - beyond her lifetime - to document and preserve what has gone before with unique design archives.  She sets out her purpose, vision, values, culture and creativity for the future. Hear the importance of making people smile and enjoying what you do as a driving force in business. Katie and Kristina delve into Manolo’s design process and the art of storytelling, design over commerciality. Kristina argues that you must remain true to yourself and design for longevity, and not purely for trends or commerciality. They discuss the need to harness the skills of those around you, the tricky nature of ankle straps and an increasing awareness of the men's collection. They debate the exciting challenges of today’s modern era where, as a society, we are redefining all the rules and real fluidity exists between men's, women's and unisex collections. Tackling the issue of AI and its impact, Kristina believes that we need to be careful not to undermine the artisan and the craft. Allowing technology to take too much ownership of the shoe design and manufacture is dangerous for us, for our existence, and for what we stand for.

In this episode Katie Greenyer talks to Tim Cooper, CEO and Cobbler-In-Chief of Oliver Sweeney, and finds out what makes him tick. Footwear is in Tim’s blood having generations of cobblers and shoemakers before him, even though at first, he resisted its siren call!  After graduating in Economics at university, Tim followed the family passion serving a comprehensive factory apprenticeship in France, where he learned the skills and processes involved in the manufacture of footwear (along with some rather dubious factory floor French…). His subsequent career has taken him around the globe sourcing from among the world’s best, and it shows with Oliver Sweeney posting record profits in spring 2024.  Katie and Tim discuss his love of the design process, craftsmanship and issues of quality over quantity; the balance of the elements of construction alongside playfulness and fashion trends. The aim, he insists, is to create something that feels great, lasts well, and remains relevant over time.  They touch on issues of using quality materials from known provenance and building relationships from the factory floor up. They examine how the company has diversified, what works and what hasn’t and debate the ‘bonkers’ collaborations to hit the headlines and spike sales from Jack Daniels to Channel 4 whilst avoiding the dreaded pitfall of becoming too ‘novelty’.  Tim shares key advice for those starting out in the footwear business. Discover how you can set yourself apart and how going back to basics and learning the fundamentals of shoe production will be an important investment in your future. 

In this episode Katie Greenyer chats to Adele Williamson, a former finalist of the Cordwainer Footwear Awards she went on to become the first female apprentice at Trickers, QUEST scholar and now heads up Trickers bespoke department. Listed in Drapers 30 under 30 and for the Bright Young Things Community awards she has made shoes for His Royal Highness the King. They discuss Adele's route into footwear as a mature student at De Montford University and discovery of her love of making as well as design. The positive impetus of the Cordwainer Footwear Award in giving her the confidence to progress with the making element from which she has not looked back. She discusses her experience as an apprentice at Trickers, QUEST scholar and the amazing tuition she has received from some of the most recognised names in the business. Including her realisation that just because her apprenticeship has stopped her learning was only just beginning as she has stived to keep skills alive. Listen as she chats through the unique experience of face-to-face client relationships for bespoke service and how you interpret what they feel into your work. From handling royal toes to the satisfaction of well turned out classic or new experiments pushing traditional boundaries. She argues there is no shame in occasionally having to re-make and the importance of owning it when things do not go according to plan.Kate and Adele discuss the pressing need in the industry of passing knowledge and skills on for the future of footwear and if this is something in Adele's long-term plan. She encourages students to put themselves out there otherwise you will go unnoticed and the importance of promoting the footwear industry. Find out who and what inspires her, does she make her own shoes, potential secret stiches and more.

In this episode, Katie Greenyer chats to Sophia Webster – artist, entrepreneur, ‘boss-lady’, and Mum who is known for her joyful, playful, feminine shoes that are instantly recognisable. Sophia tells the story of her journey into footwear from a degree course at the London College of Fashion to a Masters at the Royal College of Art. Throughout her student training, she sought internships with the designers she wanted to emulate; her first post-degree collection and collaboration with Browns in Mayfair was a sellout.    Sophia’s appeal is global – her fabulous shoes with their distinctive butterfly branding are available in over 200 retailers around the world. She opened her first boutique in London in 2016 with a second store just two years later. Her book: ‘Oh my gosh, I love your shoes!’ was published in October 2023. Sophia’s story is one of tenacity and determination. Rejection she says is really important – ‘it’s like a test of what you really want’. Her message is always to play the long game. Don’t compare yourself with other shoemakers, manage your own expectations but be true to your unique vision. And she’s giving back to charity with an important collaboration with Butterfly Conservation helping to highlight two of the United Kingdom’s most endangered butterflies.  Sophia is an icon for emerging footwear designers – proof that resilience, talent, and determination will out. It’s a brilliant podcast for anyone thinking can I make it in fashion? She’s a lady on a mission to get everyone – including Barbie – wearing the most fabulous shoes and that includes extending the range up to size 13 the first high-end shoe designer to be truly available to all. And yes, seeing her first shoes on display gave her ‘butterflies’.  https://butterfly-conservation.org/news-and-blog/sophia-webster-collaborates-with-butterfly-conservation

In this episode Katie Greenyer chats to Sacha Spencer, Senior Buyer for Womenswear, M&S. Listen as they chart her journey in footwear. From an occasional Saturday job in her parent's shoe shop in Somerset and a love of all things creative to a career of over 20 years of experience in retail. With over half of which spent with Clerks, she describes her rise from shop floor assistant through trends analyst and range manager roles through to senior buyer at one of our leading retail brands. Listen out for Sacha's top tips and secrets to being a successful buyer, it goes beyond having a keen eye and ability to build a range. They talk about the importance of speaking to your consumers, how to do it, the need to take calculated risks and role of leadership. Emphasising the need to be brave - be the voice in the room for consumers and the need to believe in your product. Hear Sacha's on-the-ground insights into the impact of COVID of retail, the changes in buying habits, the move of consumers online and the challenges of the global recession that is starting to bite. Katie and Sasha explore the concept and practicalities of ‘positive business’, how to set yourself apart from the competition, trusting your instinct and learning from the occasional stumble along the way. Throughout the conversation, Sacha highlights the importance of mentoring, networks, and support both to her career and for the future of the footwear industry.  A champion of the importance of giving back, this podcast offers a warm, personal insight into what inspires and drives Sacha as an individual and professional. A must-listen to anyone interested in engaging with consumers and finding out more about different retail roles in footwear and fashion.

In this episode, Katie chats to Richard Wharton, best known as the Co-founder of Office, Founder of Offspring, Poste, and Poste Mistress. He has over 40 years of experience in the footwear industry. A master of footwear retail, his varied experience stretches from luxury to high street, men's to women's, sports to dress. He is a self-professed shoe nerd whose chance cash-in-hand job unloading a lorry of espadrilles led to a long-term career in footwear. He also has an unparalleled archive of footwear, about 1.4 million images of every shoe ever bought by his group, and nearly every designer brand from the 2000’s all tagged and categorised. And throughout the podcast shares with us shoe designs that influenced his buying and business. Listen to his journey from Norfolk schoolboy and a hated factory apprenticeship, to art college and then homelessness in London as he sought his fortune. With frankness and humour, he describes how Office came to being, the evolution of both the brand and function of the business as it went from two men and a van to a fully-fledged chain of premises. Discover how Office led the way in blending fashion and sport retail and that taking a chance on a design that you love can open doors. With an eye for the unusual and passion for fashion the conversation is a wonderful romp through the mid 80’s fashion madness to the current day. Find out more behind the importance of scalability and the need to appeal to both ends of the market, the most expensive and coolest shoe at the top down to the decent cheapest version of it. Katie and Richard finish with a discussion about the challenges facing the future of the Highstreet and a call for a return to middle end footwear creating decent grade products and for companies to take a risk to battle being bland.

In this episode, Katie chats with Georgina Goodman. A fellow Cordwainer,  footwear style icon, tutor, stylist, and entrepreneur. She is straight-talking and tenuous. Her footwear is discreetly luxurious, and she possesses an extraordinary attention to detail and the ability to read the tea leaves of trends. Listen to her rollercoaster journey from leaving school at 16 in a world that didn’t recognise learning difficulties as they do today, and studying the technical back end of fashion design whilst working in a jeans shop. To setting up her own brand and being hailed by Milano Blahnik as the future of footwear design. Her hard work ethic and networking meant that despite being turned down by the Fashion courses she wanted she landed a role at the then 'it' label ‘The Cloth’. Moving to work for ID Magazine and then Elle Magazine before discovering the world of shoes and going back to study at Cordwainers College. She shares how she won the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers Cup and felt supported as a student by the Company. She talks frankly about the defining and difficult moment of losing her company and the challenges of working with investors, and how she fought to get her name back. Listen as Georgina shares thoughts on advice she wished she would take, as well as that which she would offer those looking to enter the industry today. Katie and Georgina close by discussing the huge influence of Sue Saunders on both their lives and on a generation in the footwear industry as a whole. They touch on the joy of giving back through teaching and how the importance of continuing to learn as Georgina has been branching out to use her understanding of shape and form in footwear into the use of space for garden design. Be inspired by her moment of ‘this is not normal’, the international language of sketching, and never underestimate the power of saying yes and networking. Be sure to follow Cordwainers on Instagram Like us on Facebook And follow us on Twitter This podcast is produced by Audio Coast

In this episode, Katie chats with Neil Clifford, CEO of Kurt Geiger. Hear about his journey from a dyslexic schoolboy leaving school with only one O-level at 16years old to becoming CEO of Europe’s largest luxury shoe and accessory retailer. Since that drawing of a green flash trainer for his art O-level, his career in fashion retail spans now 30 years, half of this time has been spent at Kurt Geiger. Kurt Geiger currently operates in 28 countries with 57 freestanding locations and it manages the luxury shoe business in the UK’s department stores including Harrods and Selfridges. Hear how Neil has worked to expand the KG business beyond the UK and entering into international partnerships and successfully launched the KG business online. He discusses the challenges of Covid on the retail business and how the company adapted both practically and how its ethos has evolved as a result. Kindness and creativity. Giving thousands of shoes to NHS workers and setting up their own charitable foundation. Listen as they delve into ideas around ambition, leadership, business lessons, management, and inspiration in the retail space. They discuss the practical challenges of footwear retail, price points, and why Neil is still optimistic about shopping on the high street. They chat about the importance of supply chain, sustainability, and how it is impacting the footwear retail business, highlighting they are now selling fewer products, but at higher prices and better quality. Would you build a shoe store out of old shoes? Be sure to follow Cordwainers on Instagram Like us on Facebook And follow us on Twitter This podcast is produced by Audio Coast