From I Can’t to I Can: The First Woman to Climb D15 with Angelika Rainer

Today, we dive into the mindset of a competitor. Gordon McArthur has been a staple on the World Cup circuit across 15 seasons, including a one-year retirement. We talk about the particular highs and lows of returning to the sport, the story of Storm Giant (the first proposed D16 in the world), and what role ego plays in it all.In particular, our conversation hovers around themes of drive, our relationship to competitiveness, and understanding our true motivations. We also chat about:🧊 The moment of retirement: Inner Mongolia, 2017🧊 Challenges and reflections from Edmonton🧊 Mentorship and the legacy we leave behind🧊 The story of Storm Giant🧊 Advice for younger climbers Resources and links:You can learn more about Gordon and read some of his reflections at gordonmcarthur.com. To follow him on Instagram, he’s @gord_mcarthur. If you’re curious to see how Storm Giant came together, definitely check out the Outdoor Research film, “Storm Giant: The World's Hardest Drytooling Route”....📸:  Cover photo by Jeff Mercier Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu  Gloves and Furnace Industries! Patreon:Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more, consider supporting us on Patreon.  (And for less than the price of a bougie beer per month!). 🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others. 

Doug Heinrich has just about done it all and seen it all in ice climbing ⛏️ as both a climber and product designer 🧤. Doug hails from Salt Lake City where he began climbing in the 1970s. He was an extensive route developer, including many mixed climbs in the Wasatch, competed at the X Games, and has been at the vanguard for product at Black Diamond almost from the beginning.In this episode, we chat about:🧊 The climbing scene in Utah, from early bouldering to the evolution of ice climbing, to the advent of sport climbing and sport mixed climbing🧊 Lessons learned from Mugs Stump🧊 The importance of humility🧊 His inverted professional career🧊 The evolution of Black Diamond and what most people don’t understand about the company🧊 How passion projects lead to innovation, and why he’s excited about his new venture, AniiuResources and links:Doug’s not much for social media, but you should definitely check out his side project, Aniiu, which are focused on making highly technical gloves for all disciplines of ice climbing, including working with some of the world’s leading drytoolers. You can check them out at aniiu.com and follow them on IG  @aniiu_gloves.And for some behind the scenes into Black Diamond R&D and testing, here is a (sponsored, albeit interesting) article from Outside from 2014, with quotes from Doug....📸: Photos by Chris Noble (@noblefoto) Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu  Gloves and Furnace Industries! Patreon:Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more, consider supporting us on Patreon.  (And for less than the price of a bougie beer per month!). 🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others. 

Eliteclimb makes the lightest ice tools in the world, and it’s not even close. It’s possible because Jarosław "Jarek" Walewski uses a mix of carbon and kevlar composites, and nothing else—the only metal in his tools are the bolts and picks.The one-man brand has been bucking industry trends for over a decade now, and it’s his unique position as an independent craftsman that lets Jarek pursue solutions that the bigger brands ignore.By being attuned to the community and working with some of the world’s best, their tools have been used on no oxygen ascents of Lhotse, expeditions to places like K2 and Broad Peak and at the highest-end of drytooling today.In this episode, we chat about:🧊 How Jarek came to understand composites by working in one of the best glider factories in the world🧊 Why he chooses to make each tool by hand🧊 The advantages of composite materials🧊 Why moving fast and trying things is a good strategy🧊 Being open to opportunities and feedback (positive and negative)🧊 His philosophy on business, craftsmanship, and production Resources and links:To learn more about Eliteclimb’s tools, head to eliteclimb.com. All of their tools can be customized (from weight, strength, colors, etc.), so if you’re interested, be sure to reach out to Jarek. On the website, you can also read trip reports from expeditions where their tools have been used. Lastly, there are more updates on their Instagram, @eliteclimb....📸: Episode cover photo by Artur Małek courtesy of Jarek Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu  Gloves and Furnace Industries! Patreon:Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more, consider supporting us on Patreon.  (And for less than the price of a bougie beer per month!). 🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others. 

This episode is all about training for ice climbing, mixed, drytooling and speed.To discuss these diverse disciplines, we’re joined by Kevin Lindlau, Aneta Loužecká, and Zac St. Jules and dive into how they think about and structure their training for their respective specialties. Kevin is a leading roof-climbing drytooler and the first American to send D16, Aneta was last year's World Cup Champion in speed, and Zac is a strong all-around ice and mixed climber who manages to send hard while also working full-time and raising 4 kids. In this episode, we discuss:🧊 Each climber’s unique journey and some surprisingly common training mistakes🧊 Why defining your goals is so important🧊 How to break things down to first principles in order to structure your training🧊 Why mastering technique matters as much as being strong🧊 Mental tricks and tips for getting in the right head space🧊 Cost-effective training solutions if access to drytooling is hard to come byResources and links:To see how Kevin, Aneta, and Zac are training, you can follow them on IG:Kevin: @lindlaukevinAneta: @anetkalouzeckaZac: @zacst.julesBe sure to send them a thank you message if you found their advice useful.A few other useful resources:Uphill Athlete has an article about Training for Ice and Mixed Climbing that I’ve personally usedFurnace Industries has a series about Training for Ice ClimbingWe also had an episode about training for drytooling specifically last season, with Eli EllisLastly, if you don’t have access to a drytooling gym or crag, Furnace Industries' wooden tools are climbing gym safe and also make for great options for training at home. And if you do want to build out your home wall, they also have the largest selection of drytooling-specific holds in the U.S....📸: Episode cover photo courtesy of Aneta Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu  Gloves and Furnace Industries! Patreon:Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more, consider supporting us on Patreon.  (And for less than the price of a bougie beer per month!). 🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others. 

Corey Buhay has made a life out of doing what she loves. That’s not to say it’s been easy.Known as the go-to reporter for all things drytooling ⛏️, Corey quickly built a career as a freelance journalist regularly contributing to Climbing 🧗‍♀️, Backpacker 🥾, Smithsonian 🗿, and the like. Around the time she started writing full-time, she also started drytooling. Again, she quickly established herself, rising to the top of the rankings for comp ice climbing in North America. But, shortly thereafter, she decided to walk away. How come?In today’s chat we talk about:🧊 The assignment that changed everything🧊 Going all in on things that give you happiness🧊 Struggles with expectations, perfectionism and anxiety🧊 Revitalizing Team USA and competitive pressures🧊 Burnout and taking a break🧊 Rediscovering balance and joy in climbingI want to say that I really appreciated Corey’s openness and willingness to discuss difficult topics and her ability to infuse humor into the conversation. Further, if you’re struggling with mental health, know that you’re not alone and that there are folks and resources who can help, some of which we share in the show notes.Resources and links:If you’d like to follow Corey’s latest writings, her website is coreybuhay.com. Some of my personal favorite articles of hers are:Russia’s World Cup Ice Climbing Scene is as Hardcore as it GetsThe Strange Underworld of Competition Ice ClimbingYears After My Mentor Died in the Backcountry, I Retraced His Final FootstepsMental health resources:Mental Health in Athletes: Breaking the StigmaResources for Athletes with Eating DisordersAthletes Against Anxiety and Depression Foundation (who offer a free therapy option)Managing Stress in Sports: Quieting the Mind and the Body...📸: Cover photo by Mike Thurk (@mthurk) Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu  Gloves and Furnace Industries! Patreon:Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more, consider supporting us on Patreon.  (And for less than the price of a bougie beer per month!). 🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others. 

I’m sure Carolyn Parker could have become a household name if she had wanted. In her 20s and 30s, Carolyn was one of the most talented all-around mountain athletes in the U.S. — she was one of the first women to become an AMGA certified Rock Guide, climbed 5.12 trad at altitude 🧗‍♀️, went on 8,000-meter peak expeditions 🏔️, sent M8, skied 50-degree couloirrs⛷️ and regularly ran mountain ultras. Or as Sarah Hudson, our co-host for this episode puts it, “Carolyn is a boss”.Climbing was only half the story, though. After flirting with the limelight, Carolyn found that she derived as much, if not more, satisfaction from helping others achieve their objectives as she did in accomplishing her own 🙌. As a result, climbing and guiding eventually transitioned into training and coaching. More than 35 years later, Carolyn has worked with 1,000s of athletes in the pursuit of their dreams.In this episode, we chat about:🧊 The life, times and challenges of being a female climber in the 90s🧊 Choosing to stay just under the radar🧊 Her philosophy and approach to running a coaching business🧊 Mental and physical aspects of strength training for female athletes🧊 How the hormonal cycle and nutrition impact athletic performance🧊 Navigating menopauseResources and links:If you’d like to learn more about Ripple Effect Athlete Training Center or coaching with Carolyn, you can visit their company website, rippleffectraining.com. To follow along with Carolyn’s latest endeavors, her IG account is @blitzkriegbarbie. To learn more about Carolyn’s coaching journey, there is a great article on Uphill Athlete. Further, UA has a lot of useful resources for training as a female athlete, including a general overview, strength training, and hormones.If you’d like to dive deeper, Carolyn has shared quite a few resources as well:Books:Dr. Stacy Sims: ROAR, Next LevelDr. Lisa Mosconi: The Menopause BrainResearch papers:Effect of Estrogen on Musculoskeletal Performance and Injury RiskThe Effect of Menstrual Cycle and Contraceptives on ACL Injuries and Laxity: A Systematic Review and Meta-analysisThe Effects of Oral Contraceptives on Exercise Performance in Women: A Systematic Review and Meta-analysisKelly McNulty also has a pdocast on the subject, “the period of the period.”Postmenopausal hormone therapy for cardiovascular health: the evolving dataArticles:Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport - A Cautionary TaleMore info on REDSHormones for menopause are safe, study finds. Here's what changed...📸: Cover photo by Angela Hawse (@alpinist007), courtesy of Carolyn.🙏 And a big thanks to Sarah Hudson (@sarahferocity) for joining as co-host!  Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu  Gloves and Furnace Industries! Patreon:Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more, consider supporting us on Patreon.  (And for less than the price of a bougie beer per month!). 🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others. 

How many of you were inspired to start climbing because of a comic? I’m sure Masato Najakima is not alone, but he is the only person I can say with certainty that that's the case. (And if you’re curious, it was Gaku: Minna no Yama (in English, "Peak: Everyone's Mountain")).Anywho, Masato is a leading drytooler in Japan and was one of a contingent from the country who sent “A Line Above the Sky” last year. Masato is a bit of a late bloomer — at 43, he’s one of the older athletes on the UIAA World Cup scene — and has made great progress since he started competing in 2016.As one of the elder statesmen in his country, he’s trying to grow the sport locally. And despite 5 drytooling gyms in Tokyo — yes, you heard that right — it’s not easy… which we dive into in this chat.Along with that, in this episode, we discuss:🧊 Overcoming health issues and getting into climbing🧊 The history of drytooling in Japan🧊 Efforts (and challenges) to grow the sport locally🧊 Where to climb in the country and the strict no-drilling ethos🧊 Unique perspective from a Japanese expat living in Canmore...📸: Most photos are by @kazuhiro_kodaira, courtesy of Masato.Resources and links:If you’d like to learn more about drytooling in Japan, are thinking of visiting, or would like to help grow the community, you can reach out to Masato at @masato_drytooling. And here is the manga that inspired Masato.If you’d like to learn more about Takeshi, here is an article about one of his routes in the Himalayas, and if you’re interested in going out for a day of guided climbing in the Canadian Rockies, you can connect with him at @taniyan_8000. 🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.  Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu  Gloves and Furnace Industries! Patreon:Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more, consider supporting us on Patreon.  (And for less than the price of a bougie beer per month!). 🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others. 

Pavel Dobrinskiy is a leading figure within the drytooling community in Moscow and is one of the most prolific route setters on the Ice Climbing World Cup circuit 🌏.Maybe you’ve heard about the Russian style of setting — its high-tension ⚡️ moves are calculated for maximum kinetic energy like Ivan Drago in route form #sterotypingmuch? Perhaps. Anywho, Pavel’s had something to do with that. From his constant drive to create cutting-edge moves, which necessitated the development of new holds to make those possible, to his thoughtful and collaborative approach to planning routes, to his mentorship, Pavel has helped shape the comp routesetting many are familiar with today. In this episode, with Pavel’s particular brand of humor in tow, we chat about:🧊 The magic of Indian Creek🧊 History of comp climbing in Russia🧊 Russian-style training (rule number 1: never shake out)🧊 The importance of speed in competitions🧊 His routesetting philosophy, including a lot of “dos” and “do nots”🧊 Opinions on some of the hardest routes in the world Resources and links:Pavel is an an all-around climber, and has done everything from expeditions to places like Nepal, China, and Tajikistan to attempting to free “The Nose” to being the first person to flash “A Line Above the Sky” (D15). He doesn’t post regularly, but you can follow him on Instagram at @majorbobkov. 🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.  📸 Cover photo courtesy of Pavel Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu  Gloves and Furnace Industries! Patreon:Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more, consider supporting us on Patreon.  (And for less than the price of a bougie beer per month!). 🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others. 

Mixed climbing was always part of the alpinist’s bag of tricks 🪄, but the technical and impossibly steep style we know these days only started to come into its own in the ‘90s.The period has been referred to as the Modern M-Revolution — a period when grades advanced rapidly, from about M8 to M13 📈 — and lasted roughly from the mid-90s to the early 2010s. It was punctuated at the start by Jeff Lowe’s ascent of “Octopussy” (WI6 M8 R) in 1994 and perhaps came to its conclusion in 2012 when Robert Jasper climbed “Iron Man” in totally dry conditions and officially denoted it with a “D” grade (D14+), effectively spitting off a distinct discipline.Today, we chat with Raphael Slawinski, one of the leading mixed climbers during this time. Some of his accomplishments include sending some of the first M10s and M11s in Canada, climbing out the Stanley Headwall (including many routes he established), and topping out the unclimbed 7040m K6 West in Pakistan with Ian Welsted, for which they won a Piolets d’Or. I want to note that he managed all of this as a quote-unquote “weekend warrior”, since his full time profession is physics professor. In this episode, we discuss:🧊 The evolution of mixed climbing (and the role of bolts)🧊 Advancements in techniques and equipment🧊 His “honest introduction” and progression in the sport🧊 Desire vs. judgement🧊 Close calls and risk management🧊 His relationship with the Stanley Headwall🧊 Social media and climbing documentationResources and links:If you want to follow what Raphael is up to, you can’t. But you can help him reach 1,000 followers on instagram. His handle is @raphael.slawinski.There are a bunch of articles and resources mentioned in the interview:“Degrees of Freedom”, American Alpine Journal (2002)The follow up hubbub to Raphael’s article, “Mixed Messages, Is Hard M-Sport-Climbing Influencing High-Standard Alpinism?”Raphael’s ode to the Stanley HeadwallThe full report of the First Ascent of K6 WestRaphael’s blogColin Haley’s blogNick Bullock’s blog Leave Us a Review!:If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.  📸 Cover photo by Leif Godberson (@leifrdenby) Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu  Gloves and Furnace Industries! Patreon:Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more, consider supporting us on Patreon.  (And for less than the price of a bougie beer per month!). 🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others. 

Whether you think you can or you think you can’t, you’re right, or so goes the pithy expression. But at least in Angelika Rainer’s case, it does seem to bear out. During Angelika’s 20-year career, she helped set new world standards, becoming the first woman to send D15 ✅ and routinely finishing first or second on the Ice Climbing World Cup circuit 🥇. That’s a far cry from the kid whose favorite catchphrase was “I can’t do it”. What changed? Well, you’ll have to listen to find out.In this episode, we chat about:🧊 Struggling with confidence and how climbing helped🧊 Developing a love for the mountains thanks to her mom🧊 Going all in on drytooling and how the sport evolved🧊 The importance of an “off-season” for recuperation🧊 Her mental battle with “Iron Man” (D14+)🧊 The decision to retire from competitions🧊 Sending her first 9a🧊 The story behind a cappuccino-inspired routeResources and links:Angelika is spending a lot more time on rock these days, and to see what she’s working on, you can follow her on Instagram @angelika_rainer. She also regularly shares blog updates on her website: angelika-rainer.com Leave Us a Review!:Speaking of whether you can or can’t… you CAN help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other podcast platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.  📸 Cover photo courtesy of Jonathan White Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu  Gloves and Furnace Industries! Patreon:Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more, consider supporting us on Patreon.  (And for less than the price of a bougie beer per month!). 🗣️ Leave Us a Review!:If you enjoyed this episode, help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Shopify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.