St Rose on the Slow Art of Growing a Conscious Fragrance Brand

Baserange founders Marie-Louise Mogensen and Blandine Legait set out to provide women with underwear which didn’t dictate or restrict their bodies. Since 2012, this intention has set Baserange on an unprecedented trajectory, constantly pushing the fashion industry’s preconceptions to build one of the most authentic and courageous ready-to-wear brands.In this two-part conversation Marie explains how Baserange aims to work in a way that resembles a healthy organism. As such it felt natural to also include the thoughts of one of the brand’s long-term collaborators, Tugba Mert Taskan, the Garment Facility Executive of the pioneering Turkish factory Mert Ipek. By intertwining these two conversations in one we hope to represent a more realistic picture of the many talented and caring individuals contributing to the development of Baserange.This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.Guests: Marie-Louise Mogensen, BaserangeTugba Mert Taskan, Mert IpekGiovanna FloresMusic & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda

Family-run womenswear brand Muse demonstrates how ambition, conscious values and a personal touch can draw unexpected paths to building a fashion company. Founder, Christine Kourim is a natural self-starter and a life-long creator of fashion. When she attempted to sell her high-quality garments at a Melbourne market stall the success was immediate prompting Christine to enlist the help of her daughter, fashion designer, Sarah Kourim. Together they translated the label to a permanent home online and created a touchpoint for their growing community. In this episode, we're joined by Sarah to learn about her and her mother’s independent journeys, nurturing a market stall into a growing e-commerce business, and the under-representation of modest voices in fashion.This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.Guest: Sarah Kourim, MuseMuse Journals with Rosie FeaMusic & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda 

Palo Studios is a multi-division company comprising of a wholesale agency, a brand, and a creative production agency all under one ethically minded umbrella of its founder, Cassie Rose Ebner. Every collaborator of Palo Studios is driven by positivity and well-being thus creating a new template for working in fashion.We talk to Cassie about the critical moment when the grasp of the classic wholesale model begun to loosen inspiring her to bridge the gap between conscious brands, retailers, and customers.This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.Guest: Cassie Rose Ebner, Palo StudiosInterview Transcript: Advance Copy
Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda

ArtEZ University teachers, Hanka van der Voet and Chet Bugter, discuss their recent open source paper: A Fruiting Body Of Collective Labour: Working Towards A De-Hierarchised System For Fashion Education. The document looks to the collaborative world of fungi and mycelium networks to find inspiration for de-hierarchised models of fashion education. We’ll learn how lichen networks influenced their approach to the management of the Critical Fashion Practices Master’s course and discuss how fashion designers, entrepreneurs and practitioners can encourage more collaborative ways of working.A Fruiting Body Of Collective Labour: Working Towards A De Hierarchized System For Fashion Education by Hanka van der Voet and Chet Bugter, Published by MA Critical Fashion Practices, ArtEZ University of the Arts Arnhem, 2022. Calling out Dutch Art InstitutionsFantastic Fungi - documentary by Louie Schwartzberg and Mark Monroe available on NetflixThe Mushroom at the End of the World: On the Possibility of Life in Capitalist Ruins by Anna TsingThis conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.Guests: Hanka van der Voet and Chet Bugter, ArtEZ University of the Arts ArnhemMusic & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda

St Rose founder, Belinda Smith, saw a space in the fragrance market for a conscious, luxurious and long-wearing fragrance brand rooted in the art of nature, and set out to steer the industry towards a transparent and gentler future. We speak to Belinda about the realities of crafting your own brand and why giving back and looking at things holistically is key to the sustainability conversation.This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.Guest: Belinda Smith, St RoseInterview Transcript: Advance Copy  Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda

Amrit Kumar and Mriga Kapadiya, co-founders of Delhi-based NorBlack NorWhite, discuss how India's rich textile heritage instantly caught their attention, why the trade show format didn’t work for their brand, and how they grew NorBlack NorWhite to being a cultural platform and creative studio. This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.Guest: Mriga Kapadiya and Amrit Kumar, NorBlack NorWhiteInterview Transcript: Advance Copy Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda 

Strategic brand management consultant Thalia Tserevegou established TT CoLLECTIVE to share her holistic vision with a multitude of value-aligned fashion brands. She takes us through her learnings on how to build modern, conscious fashion companies in an ever-more turbulent market and shares with us the moment she decided to step back and pursue more balance and purpose.  This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.Guest: Thalia Tserevegou, TT CoLLECTIVEReferences: Advance Copy Episode 6, How to Withdraw from Discounting FashionInterview Transcript: Advance CopyMusic & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda 

Babaà is a family-owned knitwear brand. From organic cotton farmers in the south of Spain, the shepherds and yarn spinners in the north, and the multi-generational factory in Barcelona to the brand’s hub in Madrid; babaà’s founder Marta Bahillo is a champion of the Spanish knitwear industry. We speak with Marta about her unique value system, decision to focus on direct-to-consumer and supporting ecological innovation. This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.Guest: Marta Bahillo, babaàReferences: Violet Sessions podcast episode 23 with Marta Bahillo and Claire PtakInterview Transcript: Advance Copy Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda

Desert Vintage stands out with its graceful nomadic style and a contemporary point of view. Co-owners Salima Boufelfel and Roberto Cowan discuss their introduction to the world of vintage and the twist of fate that led them to inherit a much-cherished local business. Speaking from the store’s hometown Tucson, Arizona and New York, they reflect on the multitude of skills it takes to reinvent a business and the significance of supportive retail communities.This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.Guest: Salima Boufelfel and Roberto Cowan, Desert Vintage Music & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda

With precisely engineered handbags made using state-of-the-art Italian craftsmanship, Advene has grown steadily since launch thanks to close relationships with its customers and mentors. We speak to the brand's founders, Yijia Wang and Zi Xuan. This conversation is available to enjoy as a written piece on advance-copy.com. Share your thoughts on this story and join our community of independent thinkers in fashion on Instagram @Advance_Copy.Guest: Advene, Yijia Wang and Zi XuanMusic & production: Emmanuel Corre
Podcast artworks: Guillaume de Ubeda