Experience of a Lifetime - An Interview With Pia Long Part 2

Following on from last week’s episode, Karen is once again joined by Pia Long for part 2 of her interview. In this second part, Pia gets into the passionate side of her career. As she explains to Karen, she has long been an outspoken advocate for regulation reform and fragrance compliance. She explains her views to Karen, and how her work and advocacy led her to be the recipient of unexpected recognition. KEY TAKEAWAYS In 2024 Pia received the ‘Septimus Piesse Visionary Award’ from the Institute of Art and Olfiction for her advocacy work around regulations, she explains to Karen the work behind the award. Candle fragrances are one of the most challenging areas of perfumery. Pia explains why and gives a breakdown of the regulations involved.  Pia talks about the state of regulations in the fragrance trade today and why it is a perfect entry point for people looking to break into the industry.  Pia discusses her creative vision, the things that inspire her perfume making and the importance she places on having a story around her brand and scents.  BEST MOMENTS  “A lot of people don’t understand that a fragrance is a fragrance.” “For the first time since IFRA was founded we’re seeing a shift toward regulations that are so overwhelming that people can’t cope.” “We take time perfecting our products so that we do justice to them, not just as a novelty.” EPISODE LINKS Olfiction Website VALUABLE RESOURCES Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind   In-person class ABOUT THE GUEST Pia Long is a Finnish-born, UK-based perfumer working in Buckinghamshire at Olfiction, the fragrance lab she co-founded with Nick Gilbert in 2016. Her career in the industry spans four decades, during which she has created a multitude of perfumes and product fragrances. She is a member of the International Society of Perfumer Creators, a member of the British Society of Perfumers, on the Executive Board of IFRA UK and a recipient of the Septimus Piesse Visionary Award from the Institute of Art and Olfaction. Some of her recent creations include fragrances for Eau de Boujee, Vallense, Zoologist, Beaufort, Lindsay April and Atrium.” ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.  Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email

This week Karen is delivering the first of a two-part interview with Pia Long, head perfumer at Olfiction. Pia has worked in almost all areas of the perfume industry from sales and marketing to product development and quality control. She has, to use a cliche, seen and done it all. In the first part of this interview, Pia goes into depth about her incredible journey from student to master and talks with Karen about the changes she has seen in the industry over the years that give her hope that the budding perfumers of today may not have to journey the long, hard road she faced.  KEY TAKEAWAYS Pia breaks down her fascinating journey that led her from a language school in Finland to working in TV and film in London and how a very early mid-life crisis led her into the world of perfumery. Karen and Pia discuss how the vast number of roles within the creative industry often teach you transferable skills that may not be instantly recognisable.  The ladies discuss how much the online community of perfumers has changed over the years and how, unlike when they both began, there is a world of knowledge and support at your fingertips.  Despite the advances in the accessibility to education and resources it still can be extremely difficult to break into the perfume industry. Karen and Pia discuss the concept of gatekeeping and what you can do to get past it.  BEST MOMENTS  “It's extremely difficult to break into the perfume industry, but if you have passion and determination it is possible.” “The process itself should give you a kick, it shouldn't be about wanting to become famous or being known as a genius.” “What most people don’t realise is that problem solving is very much a feature of the job when you’re a perfumer.” VALUABLE RESOURCES Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind   ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.  Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email

This week marks the final episode in Karen’s back to basics mini series, and as a special treat, she is focusing on something that often gets overlooked - fragrance journaling. Although many people don’t have one, a fragrance journal is a key tool to helping you progress as a perfumer. Whether its notes on your formulation or mood boards for inspiration, your journal should be your personal bible for your perfume making journey. In this episode, Karen breaks down why you should have one, what to put in it and how you can then use that information to take your perfume making skills to the next level. KEY TAKEAWAYS A fragrance journal is an underused tool in perfume making, but Karen aims to change that as she explains the many invaluable reasons for having one. What exactly do you write in a fragrance journal? Karen details the many wonderful and important pieces of information that should go into your journal to help you progress.  It’s not just notes that go into your journal. Karen explains how you can utilise digital technology to take your journal to the next level.  Once you’ve added information to your journal, then what?  As Karen reveals, this is only half of the process, and, where the real learning starts.  BEST MOMENTS  “A journal helps you sharpen your skills and create perfumes with more confidence.” “A journal means you're not relying on your own memory. It gives you a record of what works and what doesn’t.” “If you regularly review your entries and apply what you have learnt, it will help you to become a better perfumer. EPISODE LINKS Master your materials Fast Track Your perfume making with an in person class  Artisan Perfumery Mastermind  VALUABLE RESOURCES Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind   ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.  Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email

Karen is back for part three of her ‘Back to Basics’ mini series and this week she is taking a look at how to set up your workspace so you can create perfume safely and efficiently. When we start something new, diving in and trying everything at once is exciting and refreshing, but without proper preparation and organisation this way of working can lead to headaches down the road. In this episode Karen is here to explain not only how to organise your workspace, but why it is essential to do it in a safe and organised manner so that you can start your perfume making journey 100% prepared.  KEY TAKEAWAYS When you first start making perfume it can be exciting and you can easily find yourself trying a hundred things at once. But, as Karen explains, there can be some drastic consequences to not handling your materials correctly. From ventilation to goggles and surface cleaner to storage, Karen goes into detail on the basics you need to have a safe workspace.  Once you’ve got your workspace all set it is a good time to revisit dilution. Karen discusses how correct dilution practices can assist you in having efficient working practices.  When you’re in ‘flow’ it can be easy to make simple mistakes. Karen talks about the importance of labelling, not just your materials, but also your blends. And, what you should put on those labels.  BEST MOMENTS  “Getting into good safety habits from the get go is going to make your perfume making journey so much easier.” “If you are selling your fragrances, or even just thinking about giving them to your friends and family, it is so important to understand basic safety rules.” “Storage isn’t just about keeping your materials fresh, it’s about avoiding spillages and making sure your materials don’t oxidise.” EPISODE LINKS Master your materials Set Up your Workspace Make A Perfume Oil Fast Track Your perfume making with an in person class  Artisan Perfumery Mastermind  VALUABLE RESOURCES Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind   ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.  Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email

Karen’s ‘back to basics’ mini-series continues this week with part two, which takes a look at ‘Formulation’. Formulation is, as Karen says, “The reason you are here.” It is the very essence of perfume making, but it is also an area that most beginners rush into and, by doing so, make a number of costly, but easily avoidable, mistakes. In this episode, Karen breaks down the basics of formulation, guides you through the process of creating stunning formulas and goes into detail on the most common mistakes so that you can avoid them and formulate with ease.  KEY TAKEAWAYS A mistake a lot of beginners make is to throw their favourite materials together and expect a beautiful-smelling scent. However, as Karen explains, without a complete understanding of what each material will bring to the party, this will inevitably end in disaster. Karen introduces the idea of scent mapping - a way to organise and guide your material selection. She discusses in detail how it works and how it can enable you to create solid formulations.  Less is often more when it comes to formulation. Karen gives her advice on how to avoid a very costly mistake - using too many conflicting materials. What are the most common mistakes that beginners make when it comes to formulation? Karen goes over them in detail and gives you pointers on how to avoid them. BEST MOMENTS  “There’s a temptation to throw together your favourite materials and hope that something magical will happen, but successful perfumes are not just about mixing materials that you love the smell of.” “As you get comfortable with formulation it is easy to fall into a few common traps. Knowing what to watch out for is going to save you time.” “Just because you’ve got something that smells great initially, doesn’t mean you have to stop. you can still tweak it.”   EPISODE LINKS In Person Class Artisan Perfumery Mastermind  VALUABLE RESOURCES Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind   ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.  Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email

This week Karen is introducing a new mini series that will be looking back at the basics of creating your own fragrances. In this first part Karen is tackling the topic of selecting the right materials. With so many options out there, material selection can be an overwhelming task for first-timers. But Karen is here to guide you through everything from synthetics or naturals to choosing the right supplier and how to store your materials so that you can begin your perfume making journey today.  KEY TAKEAWAYS There’s a trap that most first-time perfumers fall into, and that is buying any and all materials that you come across. Karen discusses how to set your own criteria for the materials you should buy.  Natural or Synthetic Materials? - a question that every first-time perfumer will find themselves asking. Karen breaks down the pros and cons of each.  Once you’ve selected your materials, where do you buy them from? As Karen stresses, it’s crucial to buy your materials from quality suppliers, and she tells you the things to look out for.  Now that you have your materials you have to store them correctly. Karen outlines the crucial dos and don’ts of material storage.  BEST MOMENTS  “When you start out, it’s important to choose materials that align with your creative vision.” “Knowing your style is going to help you make more informed choices when selecting materials.” “If you’re unsure about a certain material, buy a sample and experiment before buying in bulk.” EPISODE LINKS Materials Mastery In Person Class Artisan Perfumery Mastermind  VALUABLE RESOURCES Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind   ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.  Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email

This week, Karen is going all the way back to a fundamental topic for those starting their journey in perfumery - “Why alcohol based perfumes are the best starting point for beginners.” Alcohol, as a base material, often gets overlooked and has many false narratives surrounding it. But, it is actually the best place to start your perfume journey. In this episode, Karen is here to explain what makes alcohol so unique and debunk all those myths surrounding it so that you can start your perfume making journey with ease.  KEY TAKEAWAYS Alcohol evaporates very quickly. Most people learn this and instantly assume it to be a negative. However, Karen explains why this property is a game changer for beginners.  How do your materials react to an alcohol base versus an oil base? Karen breaks down in detail the difference between the two. Alcohol is a very volatile solvent. Karen explains how this property allows you to create scents with more complexity and depth.  There are many myths surrounding the use of alcohol in perfumery, such as “alcohol dries out the skin.” Karen is here to debunk those myths.  BEST MOMENTS  “Alcohol reveals the true nature of your materials clearly and cleanly.”  “If you have built your business around oil based scents, don’t abandon that entirely, you can introduce alcohol slowly.” “Alcohol based perfumes are so much more versatile than oil based.” EPISODE LINKS In Person Classes Artisan Perfumery Mastermind  VALUABLE RESOURCES Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind   ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.  Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email

Karen recently received an email from a listener that posed an interesting question…”Should I keep my business doing what is already working or should I branch out and try something new?” Stepping into a new world can be daunting and can leave you second guessing if you’ve made the right choice, however, there is a way to do this and minimise your risk. This week, Karen is here to explain how you can expand your business into new and exciting avenues without losing what you have built and how you can grow your brand with confidence.     KEY TAKEAWAYS Before you start introducing new ways of working, or even new product lines, take a long hard look at what you’re already doing. As Karen explains, if it’s working, there’s a reason for that, so look at how you can leverage that to support other parts of the business.  What are the best products to get started with when thinking about expansion? Karen details some of the easiest products to develop and gives you a warning about the ones to avoid.  Karen breaks down the principle of the ‘soft launch’ and how it can help you to test new products without the excessive time and expense of a full launch.  The fear of fear itself is often the very thing that holds us back from getting where we want to go. Karen discusses what that fear might actually be about and how to overcome it.   BEST MOMENTS  “There’s a lot of power in stability and it’s the smartest place to grow from.” “Ultimately you want to gain the skills to design scents that truly represent your brand.” “The biggest thing that can stop us getting where we want to go is fear.” VALUABLE RESOURCES Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind   ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.  Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email

On this week's show Karen is joined by a leader in the tech world of fragrance, Camila Thomas. Founder of Air Parfum, a device that allows you to test multiple fragrance without sensory overwhelm, WikiParfum, a digital encyclopedia of fragrance, and ScentXP, a platform that bridges the gap behind online and in-store scent discovery. In this interview with Karen, Camila explains how technology and AI are revolutionising the consumer experience in the fragrance sector, why an open attitude to tech will benefit everybody and how sight is the new smell. KEY TAKEAWAYS When Camila, who had a background in the world of tech, entered the fragrance industry she identified a disconnect between the consumer and the product that she felt could be bridged with new technology. She explains to Karen how these initial discoveries started the journey that she is on today. Most companies that develop new technology in the fragrance industry limit its use to their own fragrances. Karen and Camila discuss the importance of opening up our tech to the whole sector.  Wikiparfum, the digital encyclopedia that Camila developed, allows consumers to understand what fragrances will smell like without actually smelling them. Camila explains how the platform works. Airparfum is a device that allows people to test multiple scents without overwhelming their senses. Camila explains how it was developed, how it works and why it revolutionises fragrance testing.  BEST MOMENTS  “Fragrance is a category that many people in marketing love, but very few understand.” “The only way to make the right recommendation of a fragrance is to make it for the individual, independently, regardless of who makes the fragrance.” “The ability to visualize a scent suddenly makes it a universal language.” VALUABLE RESOURCES Getting Started Guide Artisan Perfumery Mastermind   ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way.  Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances. With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing. CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email

Happy New Year and welcome to the first episode of 2025. Before bursting into the new year with a host of new content, Karen is here to deliver an interactive episode that will allow you to look back and reflect on 2024. Whilst you may not think you achieved much last year, Karen is here to offer you some prompts and advice that might just make you think different. And, once you’ve completed your recap of 2024 Karen will walk you through how these observations can help make 2025 a year to remember.   KEY TAKEAWAYS Before Karen takes a look back at 2024 she shares some titbits of what listeners can look forward to on the show in 2025 and some information on her upcoming courses. Karen invites you to challenge yourself and write down the achievements you made during the last 12 months. Whilst they may appear to be small at first, writing them down may lead to a revelation. What are your values? A question that not many of us think about. Karen encourages you to make a list of your values, look back at how you might have compromised on them in the past and how that can help you to be more aligned with them in the future. Having looked back at last year, Karen sets you the task of taking what you have learned and setting your intentions for the next 12 months. Not sure what these can be? Don’t worry, Karen is on hand to offer some suggestions.   BEST MOMENTS  “The more you reflect, the more you will realise how far you have come.” “We put so much pressure on ourselves with new year resolutions, why not try setting a new year's intention instead.” “Sharing your goals makes them more real. Talk to your friends or your online community about the things you want to achieve.”   EPISODE LINKS The Scent Shift In Person Classes   VALUABLE RESOURCES Getting Started Guide             Artisan Perfumery Mastermind     ABOUT THE HOST Fragrance expert, author, teacher and speaker; Karen Gilbert runs courses in the UK and online which demystify the secretive world of perfumery in a fun and interactive way. Karen has inspired thousands of students to explore their olfactory sense and create their own personalised fragrances.   With extensive product development experience in both the commercial perfumery and the organic skincare industry, Karen is able to offer a unique insight into creating natural and mixed media fragrances for fine fragrance, room scents and skincare/bodycare products using commercial perfumery techniques. Karen is also a certified meditation teacher and has a passion for helping people to create daily rituals that integrate scent with other modalities to shift state and increase your sense of wellbeing.   CONTACT DETAILS Website Instagram Facebook YouTube Email