Unpolished Watches

Mike Nouveau joins for a rapid-reaction auction episode live from Geneva. We recorded on Monday morning while sales were still ending, but talk themes across vintage, neovintage, and independents. We look more closely at a few Patek Philippe Calatrava 96s, 1463 chronographs, Urban Jürgensens, and more.We close with the best watches we saw this weekend.Watches discussed:* Unique Pink-on-pink Urban Jürgensen, Lot 149 at Sotheby’s (sold CHF 384k)* Breguet 3355 on Wellendorff, Lot 39 at Phillips (sold CHF 317.5k)* ‘The First’ Patek Philippe 3970, Lot 88 at Sotheby’s (sold CHF 2m)* Patek Philippe 96 with Breguet enamel numerals, Lot 52 at Phillips (sold CHF 63.5k)* Patek Philippe 96 with radium, Lot 17 at Phillips (sold CHF 69k)* School watch ‘Patek 2509’, Lot 6 at Christie’s (sold CHF 70.4k)* School watch ‘Patek 2509,’ Lot 29 at Antiquorum (sold CHF 75.6k)* Patek Philippe 1463 chronographs:* Lot 91 at Sotheby’s with service dial (sold CHF 70,400)* Lot 196 at Phillips (sold CHF 381k)* lot 62 at Sotheby’s (sold CHF 332k)* 1940s Cartier Tank Chinoise, Lot 75 (sold CHF 70,400)* 2024 Finarte sale* Cartier London Double Strap, Lot 40 at Christie’s (sold CHF 512k)* Rolex 6062 ‘Stelline,’ Lot 129 at Phillips (sold CHF 2.3m)* Patek Philippe 1436 split seconds, Lot 95 at Phillips (sold CHF 6.3m)* Future Grail Singapore Auction* Mike Nouveau on TikTok* Podcast episodes are published on Fridays. Subscribe to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSS.* Unpolished is the newsletter for collectors. Join for free or become a paid subscriber for $8/mo or $80/year: unpolishedwatches.com This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe

Today’s guests are dealers Eric Wind and Charlie Dunne of Wind Vintage. You probably know their bona fides: Eric was an early contributor to Hodinkee, then became a specialist at Christie’s, before starting Wind Vintage in 2017. He’s one of the world’s most respected and knowledgeable vintage dealers. Charlie Dunne is Eric’s strongman, vice president, and senior specialist at Wind Vintage. He was an avid researcher before joining Eric in Palm Beach. The pair are fresh off an appearance on Hodinkee’s Talking Watches with Ben Clymer. Eric and Charlie’s book, Vintage Watches: The Modern Guide, releases on November 17. We talk about Eric’s passion-to-value scale and how it’s changed as the market’s shifted, the speculation that’s moved into Lange, Journe, and independents, why Eric sold about half his collection and what a two-watch collection looks like for a dealer, mid-century Patek Philippe heading into auction season, the math to make a real return a $10 million Patek Philippe 2499, the dealers making (or trying to make) markets in neo-vintage brands like Blancpain and Ebel, why vintage Vacheron got hot, whether Heuer is a boomer watch, and the fake Paul Newman Eric spotted in one of my GQ photo reports. We also get into why collectors have become so obsessed with being early. Thanks to Eric and Charlie for joining the show. * Podcast episodes are published on Fridays. Subscribe to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSS.* Unpolished is the newsletter for collectors. Join for free or become a paid subscriber for $8/mo or $80/year: unpolishedwatches.comShow Notes* Vintage Watches: The Modern Guide, Amazon* Wind Vintage* Talking Watches: with Eric Wind and Charlie Dunne, YouTube* The Vintage Watch Podcast, Patreon* Eric’s HSNY talk on collecting vintage watches, YouTube* The Boomer Watch Is On Sale, Unpolished* The $10m Patek Philippe that sold at auction earlier this year, Phillips* The 16-year-old watchmaker fixing split-seconds chronographs, Unpolished* Fake Paul Newman on slide 10 of this post, InstagramUnpolished Store: shop.unpolishedwatches.com to shop our collection of Canvas and leather straps. Everything has been restocked for the fall.* Pick up a 3 Canvas Strap Bundle for $169, a 10% off the single-strap price ($157 member price!)* Shop the new Textured Taupe, made of high-quality Epsom leather.Unpolished is the newsletter for collectors and a top-20 Fashion Substack. Join for free or become a member for $8/mo:👉 Unpolished doesn’t run brand ads. Members get: (1) Welcome Care Package; (2) 10% off the Unpolished Store; (3) $50 off a Watchcheck service + comments and Q&As. Benefits info HERE. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe

This week’s guests are Adam Golden of Menta Watches and Chris Gary, the producer and director behind Chasing Time, a documentary about watch collecting premiering at the Austin Film Festival at the end of October.We start with a market update from Adam: whether the indie boom is sustainable, the institutional money driving the market, and why a headline auction result doesn’t make your watch worth the same. Plus the obsidian-versus-onyx debate that runs through the documentary, and how to deal with the court of public opinion.Chris was an enthusiast and collector for a dozen years before he spent 2023–2024 following Adam to Geneva, Tokyo, New York, and Miami. We talk about what that access changed for him, the independents he sat down with–Sylvain Berneron, Naoya Hida, Xhevdet Rexhepi—and why the most interesting young watchmakers are looking at 1940s design and Breguet for inspiration instead of Rolex.I sat down for an interview for the documentary in 2024, so we chat about the process of making the documentary, which follows Adam’s day-to-day life as a dealer, with appearances from Ben Clymer, Davide Parmigiani, Daryn Schnipper, John Goldberger, Wes Lang, and more.Chasing Time screenings are being planned for Miami, Atlanta, LA, Chicago, Geneva, London, and New York, with a wider release expected in early 2027.* Podcast episodes are published on Fridays. Subscribe to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSS.* Unpolished is the newsletter for collectors. Join for free or become a paid subscriber for $8/mo or $80/year: unpolishedwatches.comShow Notes* Chasing Time, official website* Chasing Time on Instagram* Menta Watches; Menta on Instagram* Chris Gary talking about collecting in 2020 with Grey and PatinaUnpolished Store: shop.unpolishedwatches.com to shop our collection of Canvas and leather straps. Everything has been restocked for the fall.* Pick up a 3 Canvas Strap Bundle for $169, a 10% off the single-strap price ($157 member price!)* Shop the new Textured Taupe, made of high-quality Epsom leather.Unpolished is the newsletter for collectors and a top-20 Fashion Substack. Join for free or become a paid member for $8/mo: This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe

Zach Kazan is the managing editor of Worn & Wound, and he’s covered microbrands as closely as anyone for the last decade. In two weeks, Worn & Wound puts on its Windup Watch Fair in New York (Oct 16–18) with 160+ brands under one roof. I’ll be there, along with some of you, so I wanted to get Zach on to talk about the state of the microbrand. We talk about whether “microbrand” still means anything, and why some brands hate the word (while others embrace it); the boom of a decade ago and the more experimental one happening now; Ming, and the point where a brand stops being micro; pre-orders as interest-free loans; why Zach keeps coming back to watches made by people he knows; the founders who still answer their own DMs and Reddit threads; how Serica and Anoma collect feedback before a launch; Halios, and the case for staying small; the AP x Swatch, the Bulgari x Vianney Halter, and other watches built to be loud for a week; Moser’s move into the main hall at Watches and Wonders, the Streamliner 34, and the $4,900 ana-digi Off-Grid; whether a shakeout is coming; why the Apple Watch isn’t the cool thing to have anymore, and which brand should be saying so; the Gallet relaunch.I also ask which watches from Geneva Watch Days he’s still thinking about, a few weeks later.“It’s all gone from my brain, Tony,” Zach says.* Podcast episodes are published on Fridays. Listen here, and subscribe to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSS.* Unpolished is the newsletter for collectors. Join for free or become a paid subscriber for $8/mo or $80/year: unpolishedwatches.comShow Notes* Worn & Wound; Zach on Instagram* Windup Watch Fair NYC, October 16–18* Behind Lorier’s Acquisition by Worn & Wound, Unpolished* Prevail Onward Future Field Watch* The Geneva Watch Days Debrief, The Worn & Wound Podcast* Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Superleggero, Monochrome* Bulgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter, SJX* Royal Popped, Unpolished* Late to the trend, and better for it | Moser Streamliner 34 Review, Unpolished* H. Moser Streamliner Off-Grid* Moser and Reebok’s Streamliner Pump* Gallet’s Flying Officer used to go somewhere, UnpolishedUnpolished Store: shop.unpolishedwatches.com to shop our collection of Canvas and leather straps. Everything has been restocked for the fall.* Pick up a 3 Canvas Strap Bundle for $169, a 10% off the single-strap price ($157 member price!)* Shop the new Textured Taupe, made of high-quality Epsom leather.Unpolished is the newsletter for collectors and a top-20 Fashion Substack. Join for free or become a paid member for $8/mo: This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe

Austin Rogers is a New Yorker by way of Ohio, and goes by @rehaut on Instagram. He’s also scuba certified and an aspiring mountaineer—he’s tried to summit Mount Baker three times but has encountered some truly terrible luck. Each time, he’s had a Rolex Explorer on his wrist. The first video of Austin’s I saw had him tossing a few Doxas into a hazy lake to find out whether orange really is the most visible color underwater. Austin describes himself as “maybe the most credulous watch buyer”—as a diver and climber, he uses his watches, and he’s got lots of opinions on them. We talk about grade 2 vs. grade 5 titanium, and whether choosing grade 2 is cutting a corner; the watches he’d titaniumize (Submariner, Explorer II, a shrunken Sky-Dweller, the Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin) and the ones he wouldn’t; why the “Omega’s catalog is too bloated” critique doesn’t land for him; the baby Ultra Deep he’d build if he got the keys to the factory; which Tudors from the 2013-onward rebirth era could be collectible in 20 years— North Flag, smiley dials, early FXDs, the double-signed stuff; the Submarinerization of the Longines HydroConquest and whether Longines had any option; his Grand Seiko problem; the Ulysse Nardin Diver [AIR] he regularly thinks about selling everything else for; boomerang watches; and why he keeps buying the nicest new-old-stock neo-vintage on the market and then eating an enormous loss on it.“I like to think of it as a service that I’m offering,” Austin says.* Podcast episodes are published on Fridays. Listen here, and subscribe to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSS.* Unpolished is the newsletter for collectors. Join for free or become a paid subscriber for $8/mo or $80/year: unpolishedwatches.comUnpolished is the newsletter for collectors and a top-20 Fashion Substack. Join for free or become a paid subscriber for $8/mo ($80/year):Show Notes* Austin on Instagram* Austin’s Doxa test video* Weekend Edition: Let’s lighten up and talk titanium, Hodinkee* Ulysse Nardin Diver [Air]* Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultradeep* The Tudor North Flag, with Tudor’s first in-house movement, SJX* Phil Toledano’s Tudor P01* Rowing Blazers Tudor Black Bay 58, Loupe This* The new Longines Hydroconquest* Photoshopping Vintage Rolex Watches That Never Existing, HodinkeeUnpolished Store: shop.unpolishedwatches.com to shop our collection of Canvas and leather straps. Everything has been restocked for the fall.* Pick up a 3 Canvas Strap Bundle for $169, a 10% off the single-strap price ($157 member price!)* Shop the new Textured Taupe, made of high-quality Epsom leather.Unpolished is reader-supported and doesn’t run brand ads. To receive new posts and support my work, become a free or paid subscriber: This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe

Subscribe: https://unpolishedwatches.com/In December 2025, a surprising watch went viral. It wasn’t from Switzerland, Japan, or any of the traditional watchmaking hubs.It was from India and cost about $42. The brand did no marketing, and it sold out more than 5,000 pieces in just 2 minutes.Maybe you’ve seen the Delhi Watch Company Terra. It’s a unique take on a field watch: monobloc titanium case, a case design inspired by a climbing carabiner, and with a parachute-style strap.Released for DWC’s 5th anniversary, it surprised everyone, and I wanted to get the story behind the Terra. So I reached out to Delhi Watch Company’s founder Anish Dandwani and designer Ishaan Vajpai, the duo behind the Terra. We talk about the Terra, but also a lot more—what’s it like to go viral, how watchmaking is developing in India, what makes it different, and what’s next.This episode is also on YouTube here—the guys share their screen a couple of times to show renders of what they’re working on, so check it out there if you want the full look.Unpolished is a collector-supported newsletter about watches. Join for free or support with a paid subscription. Subscribers get 2 newsletters/week, a 10% discount on all orders from the Unpolished store, $50 off a watch service, community perks, and much more.* Podcast episodes are published on Fridays. Listen here, and subscribe to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSS* Unpolished is the newsletter for collectors. Join for free or become a paid subscriber for $8/mo or $80/year: unpolishedwatches.comShow Notes* Delhi Watch Company* DWC Terra* Ishaah Vajpai on Instagram* Vincent’s early hands-on review of the Terra, Mainspring Magazine* Inside Titan Watches, Hodinkee* Sebastian Watch Co., artisanal dials made in India* Quest Precision on Instagramshop.unpolishedwatches.com: Shop Unpolished straps, including the new Textured Taupe, made of durable, versatile Epsom leather. Available in 18-20mm: This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe

Jeff Stein is a collector, researcher, scholar, retired lawyer from Atlanta, and the proprietor of On the Dash, the resource for all things Heuer. Since 2003, he’s meticulously documented nearly 600 watches there. In 2016, he was featured in a Talking Watches episode on Hodinkee. Ten years later, he still owns slightly more than half of the 50 or 60 Heuers that were on his kitchen table while filming that episode. Jeff registered on eBay in 1998 and he’s been collecting watches ever since. We talk about his “checklist era” of collecting and upgrading his collection; the personal Heuer grails he’s chasing that no one else is; why community grails like Chronomatics and Seafarers are strong while so many other vintage tool watches have gone soft; an assessment of Heuer collecting over the last few years; what he’d buy if he had $5,000 or $10,000; the TAG Heuer divers that kept the company alive; the $500 S/eL his daughter wears; the Breguet, Audemars Piguet, Piaget, Sinn, and other watches that Jeff also enjoys.We close with some advice: Know when to sell your watches. “The only way I could have never sold a watch might be if I’d never made a mistake in buying a watch,” Jeff says. Thanks to Jeff for joining the Unpolished Watches Podcast. * Podcast episodes are published on Fridays. Listen here, and subscribe to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSS. * Unpolished is the newsletter for collectors. Join for free or become a paid subscriber for $8/mo or $80/year: unpolishedwatches.comShow Notes* OntheDash.com; Jeff on Instagram* Jeff Stein’s Talking Watches from 2016* Absolutely Everything About the Heuer Autavia “Viceroy” Chronograph, On the Dash* Guide to TAG Heuer Dive Watches, On the Dash* Berneron Mirage at LoupeThis* New TAG Heuer Monza Flyback, On the Dash* Sinn EZM1, UnpolishedUnpolished Store: shop.unpolishedwatches.com to shop our collection of Canvas and leather straps. Everything has been restocked for the fall. * Pick up a 3 Canvas Strap Bundle for $169, a 10% off the single-strap price ($157 member price!)* Shop the new Textured Taupe, made of high-quality Epsom leather. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe

It’s almost the end of summer. Before we head back to school and a few of you lucky folks head to Geneva Watch Days, I decided it was time for a Mid-Year Awards Show. I called up Andy Green and Felix Scholz of the O.T.: The Podcast to talk about the releases we’ve seen so far in 2026.We start by discussing trends: The rise of “economy gold,” the second generation of microbrands, outer space is back in a big way, and our most worn watches of the year.Then, we give out some fun awards: Best Watch Under $2,000; the Discourse Award, for generating the most posts per unit of watch actually produced; the Beige Award for most boring release; Best Release of the Year (overall); Most Likely to be a Grail in 20 Years; and the ‘Big Dog’ Award. We also talk plenty about Chanel Blue and the Best Blue Award, craft, value, and if it’s okay to take five years to “develop” a color. Unpolished is a newsletter for collectors and a top-20 Fashion Substack. Join for free or become a member for $8/mo ($80/year):What will be a grail in 2046?We closed the episode with a question that turned out to be two questions. I asked Felix and Andy to name the watch from 2026 they think will be a grail twenty years from now, and they immediately answered different prompts.Felix went predictive: His pick was the Jubilee motif Oyster Perpetual, and his reasoning had nothing to do with whether he wants one. It’s about how the catalog will read in 2046: Rolex made a weird dial for a single year, 20 years ago, and then never again. It’s the kind of thing collectors love. Andy went personal: The watch he still expects to want in 20 years, the Chopard L.U.C 1860 Areuse Blue. It’s not that the latest L.U.C will be breaking auction records in 20 years, he just likes it. We talk about the new Alpine Eagle XPS “Mountain Glow,” but Andy’s pick for 2046 is the L.U.C 1860—something about it feels more certain as a future classic. He held it back from his Best Release of the Year list to save it for this question. My pick was somewhere between the two: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton. Production is genuinely limited, and each one is numbered, which means we might have a good idea how many were actually made in 20 years. Daniel Roth, Gérald Genta, and La Fabrique du Temps will also likely be the last watchmaking projects from legendary watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas. It’s the kind of thing we only grow to appreciate as the years pass, especially their connection to Genta himself and the first generation of indies. Podcast episodes are published on Fridays. Listen here, and subscribe to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSS. Also watch on YouTube:Show Notes* OT: The Podcast on Apple Podcasts; OT: The Podcast on Substack* Watches mentioned include: the Sinn U1, Earthen Ceramic, Andy's Rolex Land-Dweller (in for service), TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph, Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster; Kiwame Tokyo Sakura, Anoma, Raymond Weil A.R.T, Hamilton Khaki Field 250, Blue Chanel J12, Cartier Privé collection; Naoya Hida x Zenith GFJ, Grand Seiko Ushio diver UFA, IWC Ingenieur 35 in Pool Blue, Chopard 1860 Areuse Blue, Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton, titanium IWC Perpetual Calendar, and more. END-OF-SUMMER SALE!Head to the Unpolished Store to shop our selection of Canvas and Leather Straps. We’ll be restocking for fall in the next week, so everything currently in the store is marked down at least 10%:* Canvas Straps are $59* Matte Calfskin Straps are $95Check them out in the Store: shop.unpolishedwatches.comThanks for listening, and let us know your award winners for the first half of 2026. This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe

Full show notes: www.unpolishedwatches.com/p/what-we-want-from-iwc-and-how-toToday’s Collector Conversation is with Wesley Smith, founder of Standard H, an automotive-inspired clothing brand. Wesley has worked in fashion and menswear for 30 years, and he’s also a big watch enthusiast.During his recent visit to Chicago, we sat down to talk about both. First, we get nerdy about t-shirts. The simplest garment there is, but dozens of decisions go into making one, whether it’s from Uniqlo, Buck Mason, or Standard H. How can you tell if it’s a good t-shirt? Besides his own, what’s Wesley’s favorite? Then we talk watches. What bugs us about the Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar; how to fix IWC; loud rotors; a TAG Heuer Carrera we’ve both owned; the spec sheet-ification of watches; the problem with most midsize watches; and more. The first ~20 minutes are clothing talk, then we get into watches. We’ll continue publishing podcasts every other Friday. Subscribe to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSS.Unpolished is the newsletter for collectors and a top-20 Fashion Substack. Join for free or become a paid member for $8/mo: Show Notes* Standard H website; on Instagram* Standard H Avant t-shirt* Real Review: Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar* TAG Heuer CS3111 Carrera Re-edition from 1996* My TAG Heuer Carrera ‘Glassbox’ Week on the Wrist* BarrelhandShop our line of straps in the Unpolished Store: shop.unpolishedwatches.com This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe

John Cote has been collecting watches since the 1990s. He learned from his dad, who collected pocket watches while John was growing up in Manhattan. He’s one of the guys that’s still out there hunting watches every single week. In addition to collecting, he’s written for Hodinkee, Fratello, in addition to being a prolific contributor on the NAWCC forums. He’s been the president of his local NAWCC chapter and served as a board member until 2025. John says his collecting philosophy is that “a collection should tell a story. He’s got a different approach to acquisition—he buys watches, usually mid-century chronographs, in pairs. He looks to pair the steel tool watch with its dressier counterpart.We talk about what you learn that you might not otherwise by hunting pairs; why John loves these boomer chronographs; how he’s seen watch collecting evolve over 30+ years; what he thinks about all these little dress watches; and a whole lot more. John’s from my hometown of Indianapolis, so it was a pleasure to have him on to talk watches. Subscribe to the podcast to get future episodes in your feed: Spotify / Apple / RSSUnpolished is the newsletter for collectors and a top-20 Fashion Substack. John for free or become a paid member for $8/mo:I’m going to continue publishing these shorter ‘collector conversations’ in between full podcast episodes—let me know if you’re enjoying them, and what other topics you’d like to see covered. Show Notes* John Cote on Instagram* The Boomer Watch Is On Sale, Unpolished* American Pocket Watches: A Primer For The Wristwatch Collector, John’s article on Hodinkee* A Very American Way to Lose an Industry, Unpolished* NAWCC Forums* John’s Wittnauer chronograph pair—he wore the black dial when we chatted: This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.unpolishedwatches.com/subscribe