Hardcore Surf History

Who really is the best surfer? It's a question that has fueled debates in lineups, on beaches, and around dinner tables for generations. But when it comes to competitive surfing, there's one group tasked with answering that question: the judges. Often invisible, frequently criticized, and rarely celebrated, surf judges hold one of the most challenging and controversial roles in the sport. After all, how do you objectively score something as subjective as surfing? In this episode of Hardcore Surf History, brothers Tyler and Jamie Breuer dive into the fascinating and often contentious history of surf judging. From the evolution of scoring systems and contest formats to the eternal debate over style versus maneuvers, wave selection, and length of ride, they explore how surfing has attempted to define and reward excellence throughout its competitive history. And, of course, no episode would be complete without a little sibling rivalry as the Breuer Bros go head-to-head in another round of Stump My Bro! Because in surfing, everyone's a critic. But only a few get to hold up the scorecards.

On this Hardcore Surf History… Time, space, and reality are more than a linear path. They form a prism of endless possibility. A single choice can branch out into infinite realities, creating alternate worlds from the ones known. In this episode, we dare to explore the question of What if… And of course in an alternate reality, I dominate my brother in Stump my bro… Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

On this episode of Hardcore Surf History: Bonus Section, we delve into the fascinating story of 'Point of Change,' a thought-provoking documentary about the unintended consequences of surf exploration on indigenous cultures. We discuss the journey of its director, Rebecca Coley, and the profound impacts observed on the island of Nias, Indonesia. We unpack the tale of Kevin Lovett and John Giesel's iconic wave discovery and the resulting cultural, economic, and environmental shifts. This episode covers the film's development, the influence of western surfers, and Rebecca's personal reflections on travel, colonialism, and local empowerment. Definitely not an episode to be missed! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

On this episode of Hardcore Surf History Bonus Section, Our guest is Bruce Sutherland, the co-founder of the Stormrider Guidebook. Bruce shares captivating stories from his surfing journeys across Europe, Africa, and beyond, all without the aid of modern technology like smartphones or GPS. Our conversation dives deep into the origins of the Stormrider Guidebook, co-founded with Ollie Fitch Jones and Tim Ranger, and its transformation from a highly sought-after surf travel bible to its current online version. We discuss the comprehensive nature of the guide, the meticulous documentation of surf spots, and the exciting new features available on the digital platform. Bruce also shares his thoughts on environmental stewardship, the evolution of surf travel culture, and the unique challenges and opportunities that come with surfing in urban areas like London. If you're a hardened surf traveller, this episode is for you. For more information on the Stormrider Guide Books: https://www.stormrider.surf/ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

On this episode of Hardcore Surf History, It's Chandler's worst nightmare! Surf Contests. From the thrilling spectacle to philosophically divisive, we explore how surf contests have propelled progression, innovation and cultural milestones. We raise the question of "how do you" judge something rooted in style, feel and art? We dive into the different formats, the flaws, the flashpoints and historical significance of surf contests. Speaking of competitions, Tyler snags priority from Jamie and smokes him in another round of Stump My bro… Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

On this episode of Hardcore Surf History, we explore surfing in the time of the Hawaiian Renaissance of the late 60's and 70s. Lopez, BK, Bertleman, Buttons, Reno, Sunn, are just a few names that represented a new paradigm in surfing. The Hawaiians were no longer taking a backseat to their mainland brethren. They were leading the charge of performance surfing while Hawaiians of all walks of life were experiencing a rediscovery of their culture after decades of suppression from colonialists. These two things didn't just randomly coincide. The movement had a lasting impact and surfing would forever be changed. Plus, listen one Breuer Bro receives a historical pounding with another round of Stump my bro! All on this episode of Hardcore Surf History. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Often overlooked for the warmer waters of its Hawaiian and Californian counterparts, the Atlantic coast of New Jersey has been home to surfing for 135 years, and in turn has held unsung influence over the history of the sport in America."  That is the Opening Quote for the newly released book "I Heard There Were No Waves in New Jersey: Surfing on the Jersey Shore 1888-1984" by Rizzoli Publishing and edited by Danny DiMauro and Johan Kugelberg.  Our Guests for this episode of Hardcore Surf History are the contributors to this beautiful book and tribute to New Jersey Surfing. Book Editor a Danny DiMauro, New Jersey Legend, Mark Neustadter and Former Atlantic City Heavy, Mike May. May is a founding Member of the NJ surfing Hall of Fame and write the definitive story on Duke Kahanamoku protege, Sam Reid.  All of them have contributed to this beautiful book. Drawing on archives of photographs and ephemera from private collections, and from those held in the New Jersey Surf Museum and New Jersey Surfing Hall of Fame, this book is a celebration of East Coast surfing, from its pioneering beginnings at the end of the nineteenth century to its heyday in the 1980s as the scene converged with skateboarding and a shared influence on street style. It featured insightful texts that illuminate previously unheralded moments in the evolution of the sport, the book not only introduces some of the greatest unseen surf photography of the last century but also lets the Jersey Shore take its rightful place in the history of American surfing. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

It could have happened anytime, anywhere. But our guest's story takes place in Santa Barbara, California from 1980 to 1983. Four short years that saw a giant leap forward in the development of West Coast surfing, design, performance and image. It was set off by a rare combination of individuals, innovation and illumination,against a backdrop of some of the best seasons of surf in two decades.  Some have called this California's Halcyon Days. But many of us may not have known about this giant leap in surfing had it not been for a modest 19 year old Texan with a slight drawl who just moved to Santa Barbara in late 1979 to attend the highly regarded Brooks Institute for photography. The Texan would go on to document a period in surfing that would go on to reverberate in the surfing world for decades.  Our Guest Jimmy Metyko, from Houston, Texas, has maintained a multi-faceted, successful career path in fields of photography, art, graphic design, fashion design, brand creation, development and marketing by the application of one simple strategy: staying ahead of the curve. And in some cases, even designing the curve. We could go on and on about his accomplishments and career both in and out of surfing but, we're here to talk about a small slice of his life. His recently released book, Shaping Surf History, by Rizzoli Publishing, is out now and it documents a very special time and place in surfing. It is the Stuff of legend and lore. He documents the rise of a quiet and unassuming surfing savant, his mentor and shaper, a sudden arrival of a world Champion and a crew of surfers that would go on to shape the future of surfing. I am of course talking about Tom Curren, Al Merrick, Shaun Tomson and the Santa Barbara surf scene. Jimmy Metyko is our guest on this episode.  Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

The great Phil Edwards once said something along the lines of, 'My first wave was the best ride of my life. Everything after was downhill.' Whether that was true or not, the point made was the first taste of surfing often leads to obsession that sticks for life. And like any addiction, the stories of how we get hooked are as varied as the addicts themselves. From Hollywood Films to cool older brothers, inspiration takes on many forms. Each of our odysseys have their own origin stories which colour our image of what surfing is and in turn, help shape the culture itself. And like Edwards' downhill allusion, each career has their own trajectory. This may be me just trying to be clever, but I'm going to end this intro with question, is the way our wave ends in any way decided by the way it began? In this episode, we ask how and why we started to surf? We explore various on ramps and off ramps to a surfing life. Was it luck? Peer Pressure? Or some mysterious force that has driven us to our destiny of a salty life? Plus, another round of Stump my bro! All on this episode of Hardcore Surf History.  Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

It would be impossible to overstate the legend of Michael Peterson in the annals of Australian surfing. 1976 World Champ, Peter Townend, described him as: "Miki Dora, James Dean and Marlon Brando, all rolled into one." At the time, he was regarded by many as the best surfer that had ever lived. One of the most iconic images in surfing history is of Michael Peterson at Kirra in 1971 laying his board on rail in his iconic red trunks. The shot became the classic film poster for Morning of the Earth and was used as the cover of Tracks Magazine in February 1972. His Iconic turn consolidated his reputation as the fastest man to ever ride a surfboard. The Still image of this turn would go on to change the way surfers saw riding waves and would inspire infinite versions of it, generation after generation.  In this special episode of Hardcore Surf History, host Tyler Breuer discusses the legendary Australian surfer Michael Peterson (MP) and the lasting impact of his iconic turn at Kira in 1971. Peterson's image became a hallmark in the surfing world, setting a standard for wave riding. To honor him, photographers Simon 'Shagga' Saffigna and Daniel Carmichael created the 'MP Classic Cutback Competition,' a global contest on Instagram where surfers compete to execute the best version of Peterson's famous turn. Esteemed judges include Mick Fanning, Joel Parkinson, Dean Morrison, Steph Gilmore, Tom Curren, and Mark Occhilupo. The competition runs from June to September 24th, with videos tagged #MPCCC24 and following @only_one_MP. The episode features in-depth discussions with Simon 'Shagga' Saffigna and Daniel Carmichael about Peterson's legacy, the competition's origins, entry details, judging criteria, and its impact on the surfing community. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices